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40m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of a trio of brilliant VSs on this buttress giving varied and sustained climbing throughout. Start at the base of a left-to-right slanting ramp that leads up into the huge corner.
1) 4a, 16m. Head up the ramp to the base of the corner and a belay at a block.
2) 4b, 26m. From the block, climb the corner to a ledge where a line of weakness is present on the slabby wall to the left - possible belay. Make a technical traverse across the weakness for 6m to gain a crack and finish up it. The huge corner can be climbed all the way - Ardus Direct Finish, VS 4c. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Shepherd's Crag - top 25, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Lakes Hard Severe and Mild VS, Nuts of Legends, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3

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Votes cast 224
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Votes cast 206
Votes cast 211
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Square Chimney/Medusa Wall Combination

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Esk Buttress (Dow Crag))