Loading Notifications...
200m, 7 pitches. An absolute belter of a climb which is best done as part of the A’ Chioch Ridge continuation. Add a few long slings to a light rack. Park at the Bealach na Ba viewpoint and head for the obvious mast. Just short of the summit head east and take the steep path down into Ciore a’ Chaorachain. Gain Middle Ledge by scrambling up A’ Chioch gully for 40m and then right onto a path, the start of the route is 20m past a series of low roofs and starts at an offwidth crack. Pitch 1 (30m, 4a) climb the offwidth and then over some bulges trending left to avoid the small roof, climb a fine corner to a ledge and a choice of belays. Pitch 2 (20m, 4a) thrutch up the awkward corner at the far end of the ledge. Exit right and climb easier ground to reach a thread belay on the one of the best ledges you’ll find in Scotland. Pitch 3 (40m, 4a) traverse right for 3m, enjoying an intermediate amount of exposure, and then up, past a peg runner, climb a series of horizontal breaks trending slightly left towards a chimney. Climb and exit this on the right onto another large ledge with an excellent thread belay. Pitch 4 (30m) go to the far end of the ledge (CN scratched on the rock) and climb a superb, but short-lived layback. Go right around the bulge and take the easiest line up to a chossy ledge and boulder belay. Pitch 5 (20m) scramble easily up and left over blocks to the false summit to a choice of huge belays. Head towards the formidable-looking ridge continuation by dropping down the neck and taking the surprisingly easy to follow path up huge blocks towards the well defined crack in the steepest section of the ridge. Avoid going left past the large gully. Pitch 6 (30m) climb the slab about 10m to the left of the large crack with an awkward move at half-height, to a comfortable thread belay. Pitch 7 (30m) climb up, trending right to easy ground and a choice of solid belays. Delightful scrambling over/around several false summits gets you back to the mast. Si Lynch 2009.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Classic Far Northwest, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Scottish Rock Climbs ****, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, Scottish Classic Rock, Scotland's Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey, Easter 2012, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, The Baron's Bucket List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Great Gumclub Ticklist, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, UK Holiday Plans, EUMC - Must do climbs, Mountain Rock, Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS, STAUMC Ticklist, Easy Applecross and Torridon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adamcsyou 19 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, just a lovely bit of rock. Climbing was 4a in places but always well protected. Route finding was fine too and it always felt quite safe. HVD 4a is right. Started straight up from the CN and arrow
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, just a lovely bit of rock. Climbing was 4a in places but always well protected. Route finding was fine too and it always felt quite safe. HVD 4a is right. Started straight up from the CN and arrow
dmorgan27 24 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Needed to make one abseil on the scramble back.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needed to make one abseil on the scramble back.

Logged Ascents

698 users have logged this
299 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 120
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mini-breaker

Grade: VD ***
(Rubha a' Mhill Bhain)