190m, 5 pitches. This big chimney line is an obvious feature just before the buttress curves round to form the North Face.
1. 45m Climb a short ice pitch, then a right-slanting iced groove passing a chockstone to a terrace.
2. 45m Go up the groove above to a steeper iced exit.
3. 40m Climb over short walls into an overhung cul-de-sac which is surmounted by tricky mixed climbing up the left wall, then bridging across to reach ice leading to easier ground. Belay on the right.
4. 40m Climb a chimney and a short step. Belay on the left.
5. 20m A final awkward step leads to easy ground and the upper crest of Raeburn's Buttress.

M.E.Moran, P.Potter 17/Feb/1989.


Martin Moran Routes , Slick Ops '22 - Stars only


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Route of Interest
1978 Face Route

Grade: IV 4 ***
(An Teallach - Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill)

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