UKH

7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular route that predominantly stays just right of the west ridge proper. It is recommended to start early to avoid the crowds. The climb is suffering from polish in places because of its popularity.
Start beneath a slightly vegetated leftwards trending gully to the right of the main arete.
1) III+, 25m. Climb the leftward trending gully to a large ledge.
2) I, 20m. Walk right along the ledge and belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
3) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney belaying on the left at the top.
4) I, 15m. Walk right again and belay under a steep crack.
5) IV, 40m. Climb that crack which is easier than it first appears until you find yourself on the arete again.
6) IV+, 20m. Climb 2m on the left side of the arete before crossing back over onto the right and entering a corner. Climb this until you reach easier ground and a belay at the top.
7) Easy ground now leads to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Straight forward climbing. 160m. 7 pitches

Steger, Holzner 30 Jun 1928.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dan_Selby 1 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax guide poorly describes this. Best to start in the niche with a silver peg and stuck tricam to avoid the chossy gully. Crux pitch is well protected with bolts and pegs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax guide poorly describes this. Best to start in the niche with a silver peg and stuck tricam to avoid the chossy gully. Crux pitch is well protected with bolts and pegs.
james.slater 12 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Would be far better to scramble up to the notch and belay in the slot with a silver peg. Then run the rest of the first pitch (from rock fax) into the first traverse pitch and belay under the chimney.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would be far better to scramble up to the notch and belay in the slot with a silver peg. Then run the rest of the first pitch (from rock fax) into the first traverse pitch and belay under the chimney.
Maarten2 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently, one can just scramble to the notch between the Locomotive and the First Tower, bypassing the chossy 1st pitch, shown on the RockFax photo..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Apparently, one can just scramble to the notch between the Locomotive and the First Tower, bypassing the chossy 1st pitch, shown on the RockFax photo..
Tom Milne 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route has a slightly confusing chossy start, depending on which guidebook you use, but the three IV pitches are well worth the effort. Beware of polished holds, especially in the chimney which can be quite slippery.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route has a slightly confusing chossy start, depending on which guidebook you use, but the three IV pitches are well worth the effort. Beware of polished holds, especially in the chimney which can be quite slippery.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Via Maria/Mariakante

Grade: IV+ ***
(Sass Pordoi)
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