A fine line with an impressive first pitch that takes time to dry. Start at the narrow corner/groove to the left of Hell's Groove.
1) 5a, 32m. Climb the corner/groove past an overhang near its top to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 30m. Move up the corner to a slab. Climb it and then a crack above to a step left to another slab. Traverse rightwards to a short wall that leads to a grassy ledge and belay.
3) 4c, 12m. Follow the corner-crack to ledges and the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Classic route, and the only Whillans route on the East Buttress. Some speculate that the reason it's so undeservedly unpopular is due to it famously spitting the hard man off it!
1. 30m(5a)An immense groove which unfortunately suffers badly from seepage. If this is the case then back and footing is difficult to execute.
2. 28m(5a) Nice contrasting delicate climbing.
3. 9m(4c) Short, powerful and enjoyable.
Don Whillans 05/Jun/1955.
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