UKH

67m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine line with an impressive first pitch that takes time to dry. Start at the narrow corner/groove to the left of Hell's Groove.
1) 5a, 32m. Climb the corner/groove past an overhang near its top to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 30m. Move up the corner to a slab. Climb it and then a crack above to a step left to another slab. Traverse rightwards to a short wall that leads to a grassy ledge and belay.
3) 4c, 12m. Follow the corner-crack to ledges and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic route, and the only Whillans route on the East Buttress. Some speculate that the reason it's so undeservedly unpopular is due to it famously spitting the hard man off it!

1. 30m(5a)An immense groove which unfortunately suffers badly from seepage. If this is the case then back and footing is difficult to execute.
2. 28m(5a) Nice contrasting delicate climbing.
3. 9m(4c) Short, powerful and enjoyable.

Don Whillans 05/Jun/1955.

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High E1
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Low E1
High HVS
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Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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Votes cast 6
High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lakeland Cragsman

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Sergeant Crag Slabs)
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