An action-packed route with bold climbing on its initial pitch followed by a tough second. Start 2m left of the narrow mossy cleft of the route Mickledore Chimney, as for Chartreuse.
1) 5c, 45m. Follow Chartreuse up the gangway and out to below the bulge. Move over the bulge and climb the slab to a triangular hold. Climb left and up past a slight overlap before joining and following Mickledore Grooves to a belay in the corner at a block.
2) 6a, 10m. Move out left to a groove and make hard moves up it, finishing at the top of the wide crack of Chartreuse. Abseil off. © Rockfax
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