One of the East Buttress's major lines that has some tough moves at the start. Belay on ledges down and right of the short steep crack that heads up to the base of the huge corner groove. The top pitch can be very mossy and wet and an alternative version is described here. Many people abseil off after pitch 2.
1) 5b, 9m. Climb the steep wide jamming crack (large cam useful) to a belay on a sloping ledge below the main corner.
2) 5a, 24m. Move right to a crack (in the right wall of the huge groove) and follow this to a sloping ledge from where another crack leads to a ledge and block. Continue up a short wall to a stance and belay on a ledge to the right. A sustained pitch.
3) 4b, 30m. Climb a corner-crack and traverse left to a chimney. Go up the chimney, then left and back right to a final short corner that gains the top. © Rockfax
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