Two contrasting pitches - the first a bold slab, the second a punishing crack. Start at a gangway 2m left of the narrow mossy cleft of the route Mickledore Chimney.
1) 5b, 24m. Climb the gangway easily then traverse left below a large bulge. Once clear of the bulge, head up the delicate slab to a shallow groove. Climb this to a ledge and block belay at the top of Mickledore Grooves' first pitch.
2) 5b, 30m. Follow Mickledore Grooves up to the thin crack and over the overhang before moving left and up to a wide crack in the headwall. Finish up the crack with some effort. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1. 27m(5a). Go uo rightwards for about 9m to a hand ledge. Go left and up the shallow groove to a big ldge at the end of Mickledore Grooves pitch 1.
2. 27m(5a). Up to the wide crack.
Robin Smith and D. Leaver 1958.
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