54m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches - the first a bold slab, the second a punishing crack. Start at a gangway 2m left of the narrow mossy cleft of the route Mickledore Chimney.
1) 5b, 24m. Climb the gangway easily then traverse left below a large bulge. Once clear of the bulge, head up the delicate slab to a shallow groove. Climb this to a ledge and block belay at the top of Mickledore Grooves' first pitch.
2) 5b, 30m. Follow Mickledore Grooves up to the thin crack and over the overhang before moving left and up to a wide crack in the headwall. Finish up the crack with some effort. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1. 27m(5a). Go uo rightwards for about 9m to a hand ledge. Go left and up the shallow groove to a big ldge at the end of Mickledore Grooves pitch 1.
2. 27m(5a). Up to the wide crack.

Robin Smith and D. Leaver 1958.

Ticklists

Robin Smith Legacy

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 20 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: To calm the nerves on P1, pack a yellow dragonfly, yellow totem, gold offset and brass offset (can’t remember what size, one or two down from the largest one I think). Plus blue cam, black offset and no 9 wire for the easy bit (no 9 wire protects the traverse). That’s it, I think.
Show beta
βeta: To calm the nerves on P1, pack a yellow dragonfly, yellow totem, gold offset and brass offset (can’t remember what size, one or two down from the largest one I think). Plus blue cam, black offset and no 9 wire for the easy bit (no 9 wire protects the traverse). That’s it, I think.

Logged Ascents

87 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Scafell East Buttress

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Metamorphosis

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Raven Crag (Highstile))

Loading Notifications...