A hidden gem that, although lacking the length and position of its famous neighbours, is still a worthwhile climb. The highlight is the first pitch. Start by scrambling (rope advised) up the right side of Moss Gill until below a smooth slab capped by a roof (just before the Tennis Court Wall pitch of Moss Gill).1) 4c, 35m. Climb a groove to gain the slab, then make a tricky traverse left to a thin crack. Climb the thin crack to a pocket and step left to the arete. Follow this for a short way until a corner on the left can be gained. Move up a little, and then right, to a crack at the edge of the roof. Climb the crack until a traverse right leads to a huge block and belay next to a corner.2) 4a, 23m. Climb the corner/groove to grassy ledges and a belay a little higher.3) 24m. Move up and then right along a grassy ledge until a short wall above gains the top. © Rockfax
R.J.Birkett, L.Muscroft Aug/1948.
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Black Crag (Borrowdale))
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