Rockfax Description
An historically significant classic that forges a sideways line up the lower face of the pinnacle. Best combined with Slingsby's Chimney (p.254) to finish. Start below a corner 4m left of the edge of the buttress.
1) 4a, 30m. Climb the corner to a grass ledge and then up a short wall to another grass ledge next to a block. From the block, move up to a slim overlap and traverse left along 'The Gangway' to its end. Keep traversing a short way to a belay in a niche - 'First Nest'.
2) 20m. Climb direct for 8m and then step left into a corner (shared with Hopkinson's Gully). Move up a little way until it is possible to traverse left to a good ledge and belay on the arete - 'The Waiting Room'.
3) 4b, 10m. Move up to an alcove and make a balancy move up onto a slim ledge on its right. Shuffle right and climb a wide crack (shared with Hopkinson's Gully) to a ledge and belay. The balancy move may be avoided by a hand-traverse to gain the wide crack.
4) 10m. Tackle the chimney above to the top of 'The Crevasse' where the belay at the base of Slingsby's Chimney is reached. This is pitch 3 of Hopkinson's Gully. © Rockfax


Classic Rock , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Nuts of Legends , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , 50 more great HS routes , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge


User Date Notes
ian hendy 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bit run out for grade. But V good. potentially slightly of route?
Show beta
βeta: Bit run out for grade. But V good. potentially slightly of route?

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 19
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Rib and Slab Climb

Grade: HS 4b ***
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