A serious but spectacular line whose first pitch needs a careful approach. Start a few metres to the right of the fault-line at a massive block forming two slabby corners about 5m above the high-water line. The right-hand corner has a cramped ledge at its base. A good belay can be found here. 1) 20m, 5a. Move up the slabby corner to dirty ledges on top of the block where a line of good flakes leads left across a steep wall. This point is below a more distinct horizontal flake/crack. Make a committing hand-traverse left along the flakes, and gain a resting position in the fault-line with difficulty. The short steep corner of the fault leads up to a good ledge, Peg and nut belay.2) 50m, 5a. Move right across the slab and climb up its right edge, until it is possible to move across right to a cramped ledge. Climb the steep crack above to easier ground. Keep moving up right to gain a ridge. A difficult nut-belay can be made here or move up back left to a notch, peg and tree well back. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route in a stunning setting. The start is somewhat of a "waker-upper" hand traverse (an initial belay is advisable) but a confident approach is quickly rewarded. Can be done in two pitches or three - either way be sure to back up the belay pegs with natural gear.
At the top there is a belay peg (probably intended for CTA etc) hidden down a rock step on the right (well back) as well as the more obvious gear.
Probably the best descent (unless you have a penchant for vertical grass scrambling where a slip would be fatal) is to ab off the iron stake just past said peg (check it first and take great care as it would be easy to to accidentally flick the rope off it at the start) which takes you down into the basin of LQP.
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