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Rockfax Description
A serious but spectacular line whose first pitch needs a careful approach. Start a few metres to the right of the fault-line at a massive block forming two slabby corners about 5m above the high-water line. The right-hand corner has a cramped ledge at its base. A good belay can be found here.
1) 20m, 5a. Move up the slabby corner to dirty ledges on top of the block where a line of good flakes leads left across a steep wall. This point is below a more distinct horizontal flake/crack. Make a committing hand-traverse left along the flakes, and gain a resting position in the fault-line with difficulty. The short steep corner of the fault leads up to a good ledge, Peg and nut belay.
2) 50m, 5a. Move right across the slab and climb up its right edge, until it is possible to move across right to a cramped ledge. Climb the steep crack above to easier ground. Keep moving up right to gain a ridge. A difficult nut-belay can be made here or move up back left to a notch, peg and tree well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route in a stunning setting. The start is somewhat of a "waker-upper" hand traverse (an initial belay is advisable) but a confident approach is quickly rewarded. Can be done in two pitches or three - either way be sure to back up the belay pegs with natural gear.

At the top there is a belay peg (probably intended for CTA etc) hidden down a rock step on the right (well back) as well as the more obvious gear.

Probably the best descent (unless you have a penchant for vertical grass scrambling where a slip would be fatal) is to ab off the iron stake just past said peg (check it first and take great care as it would be easy to to accidentally flick the rope off it at the start) which takes you down into the basin of LQP.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bhopper 10 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Great route, first pitch was interesting. Started going too high on the traverse I think I was being drawn towards the pegs . Free climbing back to the ledge went the lower line went allot easier. Nesting Gull on the belay ledge made be jump and after some angry squawking and pecking I moved right onto the face and climbed up past and put a belay in at the base of the overhanging crack. Fantastic position coming out of the crack on p2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, first pitch was interesting. Started going too high on the traverse I think I was being drawn towards the pegs . Free climbing back to the ledge went the lower line went allot easier. Nesting Gull on the belay ledge made be jump and after some angry squawking and pecking I moved right onto the face and climbed up past and put a belay in at the base of the overhanging crack. Fantastic position coming out of the crack on p2

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 26
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Fifth Appendage

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lundy)