UKH Hills - 'La ley del deseo'

175m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
'The Law of Desire' follows the right-hand side of the main ridge at a very amenable grade. It is fully bolted and very popular. The main drawback is people descending down it while you are on your way up. For this reason, a helmet is advised.
1) 5c, 20m. Take the left-hand line of bolts, just right of a corner.
2) 5c, 20m.. Continue in roughly the same line. This pitch can be combined with pitch one.
3) 4c, 25m. Continue up the line marked by silver dots, to a belay at the top of an open rib.
4) 5a, 35m. Continue to a well-positioned stance on a cleaned ledge. There is another belay 5m higher.
5) 4c, 40m. Move right and follow closely-spaced bolts up a wall on great holds. Pass the first tree stance and climb up another 15m to the next with twin bolts.
6) 6a, 40m. Make a hard start away from corner. There is a 2-bolt hanging stance at 30m or continue (40m) to the stance at the start of pitch 7 on Albahida.
Descent - Finish up the last easy pitch of Albahida and walk down - see page 129. Alternatively, abseil off taking care to avoid parties climbing up below you. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The rockfax guide book is not explicit enough. . You do need to factor in time to do the last pitch of Albahida where trad gear is advisable (which could turn into another two pitches as there are two more belay points) and then factor in a long scramble to the summit AND then an hour walk off. All in all probably better to allow three hours from top of pitch 6....

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50 , Memorable Climbs

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User	Date		Notes
Atanasio Vidal	7 Mar, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Good description from other commentaries. Pitch 6 has the crux - tough pull out of the anchor and then a crux-move (6a) by the 3rd bolt or so. After this, same type of climbing as the rest. We climbed with 80 meter rope and combined/lengthened pitches where we could (especially 1+2 and 3+4 make a lot of sense). I lead all the pitches and have climbed a few multi-pitches before. My partner was a bit challenged on some of the pitches and took her time, but we were moving the whole day. Car-to-car (ridgewalk + walk down from the top) on about 11 hours.
Show beta βeta: Good description from other commentaries. Pitch 6 has the crux - tough pull out of the anchor and then a crux-move (6a) by the 3rd bolt or so. After this, same type of climbing as the rest. We climbed with 80 meter rope and combined/lengthened pitches where we could (especially 1+2 and 3+4 make a lot of sense). I lead all the pitches and have climbed a few multi-pitches before. My partner was a bit challenged on some of the pitches and took her time, but we were moving the whole day. Car-to-car (ridgewalk + walk down from the top) on about 11 hours.
felipelopezhamann	11 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Amazing climb! 8,5 h car to car descending by foot! The last 5c is kind of the crux and feels harder because of the tiredness I think. We went all the way up. I would have done following things different: - make sure the lead has always all the quickdraws (12 to 15) so he can climb further if needed - we stopped too early on p4. You can make the traverse and belay from the top of the traverse - after p6 there are multiple belaying stations and many places to use slings. So make sure you Take enough slings and don’t stop in the first station you find. We made 2 unnecessary stops - when you find the box with the book at the very top, Pack your stuff and “solo” all the way up to the peak. Then walk down the path. Use the app maps.me to avoid confusion. It takes 2 hours at slow pace. - if you start late: make sure you have a headlamp and emergency blanket if you need to sleep at the top. - take enough water Kr and climb on!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Amazing climb! 8,5 h car to car descending by foot! The last 5c is kind of the crux and feels harder because of the tiredness I think. We went all the way up. I would have done following things different: - make sure the lead has always all the quickdraws (12 to 15) so he can climb further if needed - we stopped too early on p4. You can make the traverse and belay from the top of the traverse - after p6 there are multiple belaying stations and many places to use slings. So make sure you Take enough slings and don’t stop in the first station you find. We made 2 unnecessary stops - when you find the box with the book at the very top, Pack your stuff and “solo” all the way up to the peak. Then walk down the path. Use the app maps.me to avoid confusion. It takes 2 hours at slow pace. - if you start late: make sure you have a headlamp and emergency blanket if you need to sleep at the top. - take enough water Kr and climb on!
felipelopezhamann	11 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Amazing climb! 8,5 h car to car descending by foot! The last 5c is kind of the crux and feels harder because of the tiredness I think. We went all the way up. I would have done following things different: - make sure the lead has always all the quickdraws (12 to 15) so he can climb further if needed - we stopped too early on p4. You can make the traverse and belay from the top of the traverse - after p6 there are multiple belaying stations and many places to use slings. So make sure you Take enough slings and don’t stop in the first station you find. We made 2 unnecessary stops - when you find the box with the book at the very top, Pack your stuff and “solo” all the way up to the peak. Then walk down the path. Use the app maps.me to avoid confusion. It takes 2 hours at slow pace. - if you start late: make sure you have a headlamp and emergency blanket if you need to sleep at the top. - take enough water Kr and climb on!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Amazing climb! 8,5 h car to car descending by foot! The last 5c is kind of the crux and feels harder because of the tiredness I think. We went all the way up. I would have done following things different: - make sure the lead has always all the quickdraws (12 to 15) so he can climb further if needed - we stopped too early on p4. You can make the traverse and belay from the top of the traverse - after p6 there are multiple belaying stations and many places to use slings. So make sure you Take enough slings and don’t stop in the first station you find. We made 2 unnecessary stops - when you find the box with the book at the very top, Pack your stuff and “solo” all the way up to the peak. Then walk down the path. Use the app maps.me to avoid confusion. It takes 2 hours at slow pace. - if you start late: make sure you have a headlamp and emergency blanket if you need to sleep at the top. - take enough water Kr and climb on!
kyaizawa	17 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Definitely worth extending p5 to the double bolt belay in the corner and not stopping at the stance behind the tree. P6 can then be run on beyond the first belay station (double rings) and all the way up to a chain-thread ab station up and right above the final peg runner. I think this makes p7 shorter (20-25m?) and doable on just a couple of slings. Pizzeria owner has signs up saying the parking is for patrons only, but plenty of people still seemed to be using it for walking and climbing. May be an issue at busier times...	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Definitely worth extending p5 to the double bolt belay in the corner and not stopping at the stance behind the tree. P6 can then be run on beyond the first belay station (double rings) and all the way up to a chain-thread ab station up and right above the final peg runner. I think this makes p7 shorter (20-25m?) and doable on just a couple of slings. Pizzeria owner has signs up saying the parking is for patrons only, but plenty of people still seemed to be using it for walking and climbing. May be an issue at busier times...
brianrunner	12 Mar, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Superb sustained climbing with the crux on pitch 6 near the top and minor amendments to the guidebook as follows: pitch 5. 4+ 40m move right and follow the closely spaced bolts leading up the steep wall on great holds. pass the first tree stance and climb up another 15m to the next with twin bolts. pitch 6. 5+ 40m hard start away from corner and on smaller holds (5+ or seems like it with tiring limbs!) Gets easier but still steep from there.There is a 2 bolt hanging stance at 30m or continue (40m) to the stance at the start of pitch 7 on Gubia Normal. pitch 7 4 45m Gubia Normal to the chain at the the start of the scrambling. There is a big bay stance with tree and fixed gear midway if you want to split this one.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Superb sustained climbing with the crux on pitch 6 near the top and minor amendments to the guidebook as follows: pitch 5. 4+ 40m move right and follow the closely spaced bolts leading up the steep wall on great holds. pass the first tree stance and climb up another 15m to the next with twin bolts. pitch 6. 5+ 40m hard start away from corner and on smaller holds (5+ or seems like it with tiring limbs!) Gets easier but still steep from there.There is a 2 bolt hanging stance at 30m or continue (40m) to the stance at the start of pitch 7 on Gubia Normal. pitch 7 4 45m Gubia Normal to the chain at the the start of the scrambling. There is a big bay stance with tree and fixed gear midway if you want to split this one.