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250m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular long route on the island is the spire-like ridge of Albahida. Climbing it is a full day's outing for most teams, including the long descent. The line of the route is a bit vague since it wanders around the rib, however most of the stances have fixed gear, if in doubt, just follow the easiest line.

Gear - There is some old fixed gear but take a small rack consisting of medium wires and a few larger cams. Also take lots of slings for the numerous threads high on the route.
Start at the base of the left-hand spur of the ridge by some red marks on the rock.
Timings - Walk-in 30 mins; main ridge climbing 2 hours fast, 7 hours slow; upper ridge 30 mins to 1 hour; descent 1-2 hours. Total of 4 hours fast, or 10 hours slow.
1) 3a, 38m. Climb the ridge by the easiest line, first right then left to a stance on a ledge. Quan es sa Jose goes direct above this stance.
2) 4b, 28m. Move right then upwards with a hard move or two. Easier climbing leads back left around a rib to a recess.
3) 4b, 26m. Climb direct over a small overlap to a scoop/ledge. Move out right onto the rib which leads to a stance at the base of a section of orange rock.
4) 3b, 30m. Climb up right past some loose blocks and then up a long flake/corner, past an odd bolt, to belay on a ledge.
5) 4c, 28m. Climb direct past trees to a steepening. Make a few hard pulls, past some pegs, and onto the rib. This leads more easily to a scoop stance and belay on some natural threads.
6) 3b, 55m. A long pitch. Follow the easy-angled rib above, past numerous natural threads, heading for an orange bulge and a large stance.
7) 3c, 45m. Move right to a corner, then climb up over a bulge onto an easy slab which leads to the top.
Gubia Variante - A right-hand start to the ridge can be made in three long pitches at about grade 5c - see topo on next page.
Descent 1 - For the full summit experience, don't leave any gear at the base of the route. From the top of the climbing, scramble up the ridge to the summit - easy in trainers but harder if there is a wind blowing when you may need to rope up. Continue over the top and drop down the other side to reach a dirt road. This zig-zags down, past a farm, to the main road - see map on page 121. Turn right and head back downhill to the car (1-2 hours).
Descent 2 - Continue along the ridge and over the summit as for Descent 1 but, before you reach the zig-zag track, walk leftwards under the Cara Oeste. Keep well away from the face and drop steeply down the scree and scrub-covered slope between the main face and another thin ridge opposite it. This is hard going and there is no real path, but relatively quick (1/2 - 1 hour from the summit).
Descent 3 - Fast but tricky since you need to abseil down a line you haven't come up, which may have other climbers on it! Abseil down the last pitch. From here abseil down the right-hand (looking in) side of the ridge, down the line of La ley del deseo. Don't commit yourself to the first two abseils until you know where you are going. After that it is straightforward © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Gear - There is some old fixed gear but take a small rack consisting of medium wires and a few larger Friends. Also take lots of slings for the numerous threads high on the route.
Start at the base of the left-hand spur of the ridge by some red marks on the rock.
Timings - Walk-in 30 mins; main ridge climbing 2 hours fast, 5 hours slow; upper ridge 30 mins unless windy; descent 1 hour. Total of 4 hours fast, or 8 hours slow.
1) 3, 30m. Climb the ridge by the easiest line, first right then left to a stance on a ledge. Quan es sa Jose goes direct above this stance.
2) 4, 25m. Move right then upwards with a hard move or two. Easier climbing leads back left around a rib to a recess.
3) 4, 25m. Climb direct over a small overlap to a scoop-ledge. Move out right onto the rib which leads to a stance at the base of a section of orange rock.
4) 3+, 35m. Climb up right past some loose blocks and then up a long flake/corner, past an extraordinary bolt, to belay on a ledge.
5) 4+, 40m. Climb direct past some trees to a steepening. Make a few hard pulls, past some pegs, and onto the rib (possible stance). This leads more easily to a scoop stance on some natural threads.
6) 3, 50m. Follow the easy-angled rib above, past numerous natural threads, heading for an orange bulge and a large stance.
7) 3+, 45m. Move right to a corner, then climb up over a bulge onto an easy slab which leads to the top.
Gubia Variante - A right-hand start to the ridge can be made in three long pitches at about grade 5. No further details are known but the line looks fairly straightforward.
Descent 1 - For the full summit experience, don't leave any gear at the base of the route. From the top of the climbing, scramble up the ridge to the summit - easy in trainers but harder if there is a wind blowing when you may need to rope up. Continue over the top and drop down the other side to reach a dirt road. This zig-zags down, past a farm, to the main road - see map on page 66. Turn right and head back downhill to the car (1 hour).
Descent 2 - Continue along the ridge and over the summit as for Descent 1 but, before you reach the zig-zag track, walk leftwards under the Cara Oeste. Keep well away from the face and, instead, drop steeply down the scree and scrub-covered slope between the main face and another thin ridge opposite it. This is hard going and there is no real path, but relatively quick (30 mins from the summit).
Descent 3 - Fast but tricky since you need to abseil down a line you haven't come up, which may have other climbers on it! Abseil down the last pitch. From here abseil down the right-hand (looking in) side of the ridge, down the line of La Ley del Deseo. Don't commit yourself to the first two abseils until you know where you are going. After that it is straightforward.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50, The Big Easys

Feedback

User Date Notes
FerClimbs 9 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I think times need to be reviewed. We took 1 hour for the scramble to the summit (very slow) and 1:30hs from the summit to the car!!! (At a fairly good pace). We made it at 22:30hs to the car and we left at 23hs with two other parties still on the route or similar (as they cars were still there). Also the path recommended in the Rockfax guidebook may not be the fastest. Indeed it may not be valid anymore as now there are two gates and signs of "private property" near the road.
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βeta: I think times need to be reviewed. We took 1 hour for the scramble to the summit (very slow) and 1:30hs from the summit to the car!!! (At a fairly good pace). We made it at 22:30hs to the car and we left at 23hs with two other parties still on the route or similar (as they cars were still there). Also the path recommended in the Rockfax guidebook may not be the fastest. Indeed it may not be valid anymore as now there are two gates and signs of "private property" near the road.
brianrunner 12 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: a must do. the continuation scramble is the way to go. more great rock, airy and can be done in trainers. an easy walk off from the top (but be careful on the road!)
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βeta: a must do. the continuation scramble is the way to go. more great rock, airy and can be done in trainers. an easy walk off from the top (but be careful on the road!)
Raph B 12 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pitches 2 onwards deserve three stars. Pitch 2 - Fairly sustained but good. Pitch 3 onwards some old pegs exist, but lots of good threads throughout. Great route!
βeta?
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βeta: Pitches 2 onwards deserve three stars. Pitch 2 - Fairly sustained but good. Pitch 3 onwards some old pegs exist, but lots of good threads throughout. Great route!
Martin1 10 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Climb the first 5 pitches then ab back down! Don't ab to far because the rope really does make it down to that belay station believe me! Top route!
βeta?
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βeta: Climb the first 5 pitches then ab back down! Don't ab to far because the rope really does make it down to that belay station believe me! Top route!

Logged Ascents

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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set