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10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. The centre of the buttress leads over an overhang to another that caps the wall, and is cleaved by an excellent flake. Finish up this with gusto. A classic E1 experience. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, Ultimate E1 ticklist, 3 Star Graded, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Col Kingshott 4 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hard!
βeta?
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βeta: Hard!
Steve Banham 11 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This Route has every thing! A Campus start, rock over dominated centre, and a sloper smear finish, with the physical crux at the start, and a psycological crux near the top. Just trust the sloper at the top (and maybe a toe hook for the win!). Gets better every time.
βeta?
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βeta: This Route has every thing! A Campus start, rock over dominated centre, and a sloper smear finish, with the physical crux at the start, and a psycological crux near the top. Just trust the sloper at the top (and maybe a toe hook for the win!). Gets better every time.
SteveM 18 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A deserved classic with sustained 5b moves interspersed with good rests and gear.
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βeta: A deserved classic with sustained 5b moves interspersed with good rests and gear.
Alex Mason 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: every move is 5b. definitive E1 i thought. got to the break a used a size 2 cam in conjunction with a hand placed rock. left rock insitu for others. absolutely great route 4*
βeta?
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βeta: every move is 5b. definitive E1 i thought. got to the break a used a size 2 cam in conjunction with a hand placed rock. left rock insitu for others. absolutely great route 4*
leon 25 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: the start is hard (felt top end 5b to me). i found moving from the undercut to the top straightforward but (surprisingly)strenuous. tip the middle gear break is far bigger than it looks from the bottom.
βeta?
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βeta: the start is hard (felt top end 5b to me). i found moving from the undercut to the top straightforward but (surprisingly)strenuous. tip the middle gear break is far bigger than it looks from the bottom.
thebigfriendlymoose 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: fun route - the start is very thuggy if tackled direct (5c?) with the upper slab and crack offering a pleasantly balancy contrast (possibly a bit soft for the grade?).
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βeta: fun route - the start is very thuggy if tackled direct (5c?) with the upper slab and crack offering a pleasantly balancy contrast (possibly a bit soft for the grade?).
Jus 24 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The undercut under the roof was a lot better than I expected. Good route, but not on a par with Commander Energy for example.
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βeta: The undercut under the roof was a lot better than I expected. Good route, but not on a par with Commander Energy for example.
Nick Smith - Climbers 12 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A route with something for everyone! A strong, bouldery start, a balancy slabby middle section and a layback crack to finish.
βeta?
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βeta: A route with something for everyone! A strong, bouldery start, a balancy slabby middle section and a layback crack to finish.
withey 20 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: And preferably not seconded by someone who has never been climbing outside properly before yes Rob?!!! It took me a while longer than it would do today.
βeta?
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βeta: And preferably not seconded by someone who has never been climbing outside properly before yes Rob?!!! It took me a while longer than it would do today.
Robo 14 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Mm...what a route. Best done on a hot sunny day with your shirt off, so all the crowds of top-ropers and ramblers can marvel at your athleticism and skill.
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βeta: Mm...what a route. Best done on a hot sunny day with your shirt off, so all the crowds of top-ropers and ramblers can marvel at your athleticism and skill.

Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 133
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 133
Votes cast 130
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Encouragement

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Hen Cloud)