UKH

24m.

Rockfax Description
Boulder up into the hanging groove then mince rightwards awkwardly (especially if you're long-legged) to pass the nose and climb the excellent gradually-widening cracks above. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans 1951.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Roaches HVS Challenge, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Michelle's crack ticklist, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs, Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1, Hardest HVSs in the Peak, Roaches Cracks

Feedback

User Date Notes
RETICENTFISH 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Loved it! Did get a little minced, but thats part of the fun. Not the most elegant climbing Ive ever done though. If you enjoy a challange give it a go.
βeta?
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βeta: Loved it! Did get a little minced, but thats part of the fun. Not the most elegant climbing Ive ever done though. If you enjoy a challange give it a go.
daveagriff 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The upper crack was sweet.
Show beta
βeta: The upper crack was sweet.
nate 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb, but more fun getting others to do it and then watching.
βeta?
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βeta: Great climb, but more fun getting others to do it and then watching.
GrahamD 12 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly the hardest part is to avoid getting the ropes locked up higher up ! Excellent one to point the climbing wall merchants at.
βeta?
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βeta: Possibly the hardest part is to avoid getting the ropes locked up higher up ! Excellent one to point the climbing wall merchants at.
Mick B 27 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Horrible. Failed miserably.Possibly the only route i wish i`d never tried.
βeta?
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βeta: Horrible. Failed miserably.Possibly the only route i wish i`d never tried.
Nick Smith - Climbers 12 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Simply hideous! Even once you've 'minced' around the lip on the traverse, you are still faced with a slopey unprotected off-width and chimney above...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simply hideous! Even once you've 'minced' around the lip on the traverse, you are still faced with a slopey unprotected off-width and chimney above...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 132
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 123
Votes cast 123
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Baldstones ArĂȘte

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Newstones and Baldstones)
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