12m.

Rockfax Description
The unprotected blunt rib was an astounding ascent before sticky rubber and remains a bold and infrequently climbed pitch. Sadly top-roping is polishing the crucial holds just below the top. © Rockfax

FA. Jonny Woodward 1977.

Ticklists

Hard Grit , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , World Graded List , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , One Man and His Serotonin Levels , Hard Grit , Winter 23/24 , Best Before 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
Aly 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Some people think this is E7!! Soft at E6 but does seem to be slightly polished. I thought the direct finish went at E6/7 6b/c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some people think this is E7!! Soft at E6 but does seem to be slightly polished. I thought the direct finish went at E6/7 6b/c
Ally Smith 18 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What grade doe the direct finish go at?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What grade doe the direct finish go at?
carl dawson 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Becoming harder over the years as clumsy footwork has abraded the soft hold out right below the finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Becoming harder over the years as clumsy footwork has abraded the soft hold out right below the finish.
simes303 1996 Show βeta
βeta: I don't get why people think there's no gear. I placed a small Peanut just below half height which held when I slipped on the last move. Climbed it on second try straight after. No cheating pads.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't get why people think there's no gear. I placed a small Peanut just below half height which held when I slipped on the last move. Climbed it on second try straight after. No cheating pads.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 49
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Night Prowler

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Hen Cloud)

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