The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The thin crack has perfect protection and superb finger-jams but still manages to be shockingly hard work considering its length. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
User | Date | Notes | ||
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GeorgiePorgie1 | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Defo mid E1 and defo mid 5b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Defo mid E1 and defo mid 5b. |
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ste | 20 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: did brush off, party animal and original on the needle then came here and fell off this. ok mostly my fault but still think more E1 than HVS | βeta? | |
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βeta: did brush off, party animal and original on the needle then came here and fell off this. ok mostly my fault but still think more E1 than HVS |
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John H Bull | 14 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Felt like solid E1 to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt like solid E1 to me. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)