UKH

The stunning overhanging prow and crack up the left edge of the wall. Start from a good
pedicle belay as for West Side Story, the best approach to which is either a rising traverse
from the below Empire of the Sun or from directly below up the ridge and groove (Difficult).
Climb juggy hollow flakes just right of the arete to a good flat hold at a break from where
protection can be arranged. Gain a sloper on the lip above and make a sequence of desperate slap up side pulls to a good hidden hold at the base of the hanging groove. A further hard move up the groove leads to good holds; swing right then up to jugs and a rest. Move out left, then up to pull over at the crack. Excellent powerful climbing, well protected after a bold crux.

Tim Rankin and Guy Robertson May/2008.

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Hardest Scottish Trad

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