The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - From 29th February onwards the restriction is in place for the whole crag due to nesting Peregrines (and Ravens). If possible the restriction will be reduced once the Peregrine's nest site can be confirmed. Please check back here for further updates.
Rockfax Description
The original classic has become polished over the years. It is still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start from a narrow grassy ledge above and left of the large tree growing left of the toe of the buttress.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the glossy flake-crack then step right onto a short, steep, shattered wall above (some suspect holds). Step out right and belay left of a large pinnacle.
2) 4b, 26m. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, then slide up the shiny crack to a possible stance. Climb the pleasant ramp, in a superb situation, to finish up the grassy groove. Belay on the ledge on the right or find a well-hidden iron spike in the grass. © Rockfax
FA. D.Johnson, D.Mellor 1960.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , 2016 Targets , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Anvil.Chorus | 19 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: New BMC guide maybe off route at the start compared to 1980s BMC guide. | βeta? | |
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βeta: New BMC guide maybe off route at the start compared to 1980s BMC guide. |
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alasdair.scott | 30 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Evidence of Peregrines nesting at the belay, although it appears they are fully fledged and have left now. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Evidence of Peregrines nesting at the belay, although it appears they are fully fledged and have left now. |
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nick w | 13 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: nesting birds next to the belay stance 2 days ago,thought it was a bit chossy.3 stars? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: nesting birds next to the belay stance 2 days ago,thought it was a bit chossy.3 stars? |
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craigswoods | 15 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: First 4 metres or so of the first pitch were good. Quite loose and chossy after that. Second pitch was ncie though | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First 4 metres or so of the first pitch were good. Quite loose and chossy after that. Second pitch was ncie though |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)