Restricted Access
Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways.
Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
Two great pitches, both with safe big air potential!
1) 6b, 35m. Follow Pull My Daisy to the pipe. Move up and right to a crack and good runners. A hard traverse right leads to the crack of Naked Before the Beast and a microwire. More hard climbing right past a bolt eventually leads to the jugs of Poetry Pink. Follow this to the belay on the prow.
2) 6b, 25m. Step back down right into the groove, and traverse out to a bolt on Raped By Affection level with the belay. Carry on traversing until below a second bolt on Spiltstream, move up to this, and then step right above the crux of Cystitis By Proxy and head all the way to the right of the slab.
2a) 6a, 20m. Less of a traverse and easier to second. Follow the original to above the crux of Cystitis By Proxy and finish up this.
2b) 5c, 20m. A surprisingly easy version but very bold. From the first bolt traverse right to just before Splitstream, then climb over the top of its second bolt on good holds. Step right above the crux of Cystitis By Proxy to follow this to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Llanberis Slate *** Routes , ... And One For The Crow
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area
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Take a Pig's Head, Add One Spoonful of Medium Rage
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Bryn y Dyfrgi)