HS. At the top of the scree slope, locate a painted name on the rock 'Esp Central' - there are 2 painted names about 30m apart, the right-hand is the correct one to use. This painted name indicates the direct start.1) 3+, 30m. From the right-hand painted name move up easily, to the left of a very smooth brown shield of rock, then belay beneath a long corner. 2) 4+, 30m. Climb up the corner, then move up and left onto the arete. Climb the arete (pegs) to a belay at a bolt and peg. 3) 3, 30m. Continue directly up grooves to a big ledge and trees on the left (this ledge is the point at which the Quick Start joins the route). 4) 3+, 40m. Move right a few metres from the big ledge and climb awkwardly up past a sapling at 3m. Continue up corners and cracks and move right to a belay. 5) 1, 12m. Walk/scramble right to belay on the ridge next to a small sapling sticking out horizontally from the rock.6) 4, 20m. Climb the face of the arete to a ledge, and a peg belay just up and right of a large tree. 7) 4, 45m. Follow the cracks and arete to a good ledge. 8) 4+, 40m. Traverse left to the foot of a crack/groove. Take this with interest to easier ground and a large ledge and tree. A good spot for lunch. 9) 1, 8m. Move up and right a short distance to belay beneath the steep, crack-seamed wall © Rockfax
FA. J.Roig, C.Torregrosa, M.Gascon 1965.
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