UKH

425m, 13 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HS. At the top of the scree slope, locate a painted name on the rock 'Esp Central' - there are 2 painted names about 30m apart, the right-hand is the correct one to use. This painted name indicates the direct start.
1) 3+, 30m. From the right-hand painted name move up easily, to the left of a very smooth brown shield of rock, then belay beneath a long corner.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb up the corner, then move up and left onto the arete. Climb the arete (pegs) to a belay at a bolt and peg.
3) 3, 30m. Continue directly up grooves to a big ledge and trees on the left (this ledge is the point at which the Quick Start joins the route).
4) 3+, 40m. Move right a few metres from the big ledge and climb awkwardly up past a sapling at 3m. Continue up corners and cracks and move right to a belay.
5) 1, 12m. Walk/scramble right to belay on the ridge next to a small sapling sticking out horizontally from the rock.
6) 4, 20m. Climb the face of the arete to a ledge, and a peg belay just up and right of a large tree.
7) 4, 45m. Follow the cracks and arete to a good ledge.
8) 4+, 40m. Traverse left to the foot of a crack/groove. Take this with interest to easier ground and a large ledge and tree. A good spot for lunch.
9) 1, 8m. Move up and right a short distance to belay beneath the steep, crack-seamed wall © Rockfax

FA. J.Roig, C.Torregrosa, M.Gascon 1965.

Ticklists

Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!) , Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , The Big Easys , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Costa B , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , Costa blanca 2022 , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics , Costa Blanca 2022

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User Date Notes
robert7249 26 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Started late but moved fast, topping out just as the sun began to go down. Found the descent off fairly easily thankfully
βeta?
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βeta: Started late but moved fast, topping out just as the sun began to go down. Found the descent off fairly easily thankfully
Stanley 24 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, with plenty of ledges and good belays. Route finding not the route itself is fairly logical when backed up with the topo. Only a few belays don't have bolts and these all have obvious and good other gear. Timing was around 45mins to walk in. 5.5hrs for the route and 2 hours to get down to the car. I was concerned that the descent was going to be really tricky, but once you've found it (a couple of meters above the red dot, to the right through a cluster of trees) its very simple. The metal wire that runs next to it is as good for way marking as it is for protection. Keep looking for it and don't descend too soon, you are going over the next big shoulder of rock. The wire is a bit intermittent but takes you all the way down to the scree path over the other side. The wire is only really necessary at the very top of the route as a back up to an exposed scramble/walk - its just useful on the rest of it. I wouldn't want to be doing the wire section in the dark the first time I did the route, but would be quite happy finding the way again with a head torch now I've seen it.
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βeta: Brilliant route, with plenty of ledges and good belays. Route finding not the route itself is fairly logical when backed up with the topo. Only a few belays don't have bolts and these all have obvious and good other gear. Timing was around 45mins to walk in. 5.5hrs for the route and 2 hours to get down to the car. I was concerned that the descent was going to be really tricky, but once you've found it (a couple of meters above the red dot, to the right through a cluster of trees) its very simple. The metal wire that runs next to it is as good for way marking as it is for protection. Keep looking for it and don't descend too soon, you are going over the next big shoulder of rock. The wire is a bit intermittent but takes you all the way down to the scree path over the other side. The wire is only really necessary at the very top of the route as a back up to an exposed scramble/walk - its just useful on the rest of it. I wouldn't want to be doing the wire section in the dark the first time I did the route, but would be quite happy finding the way again with a head torch now I've seen it.
JamesAlexanderTurnbull 10 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A big day out. The direct start appears to have become to standard way now listed in the guides.
βeta?
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βeta: A big day out. The direct start appears to have become to standard way now listed in the guides.
JayW 3 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This is a long day out so make sure you have enough water and snacks for the duration (we took about 7 hours to top out whilst the descent was just shy of two hours). Take a windproof jacket as it can get breezy on the top pitches. Didn't read the guidebook properly and on pitch 2 climbed the crack direct which was draining. Route finding on pitch 4 was slightly confusing but belayed with a large sling around a rock in the vegetated traverse section. On the ridge it is possible to knock 2 or 3 pitches out in one go (we used a 60m rope). Take sturdy but comfortable shoes for the descent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a long day out so make sure you have enough water and snacks for the duration (we took about 7 hours to top out whilst the descent was just shy of two hours). Take a windproof jacket as it can get breezy on the top pitches. Didn't read the guidebook properly and on pitch 2 climbed the crack direct which was draining. Route finding on pitch 4 was slightly confusing but belayed with a large sling around a rock in the vegetated traverse section. On the ridge it is possible to knock 2 or 3 pitches out in one go (we used a 60m rope). Take sturdy but comfortable shoes for the descent.
C Witter 25 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant route in a fantastic situation. Not much fixed gear, though some bolted belays and a few bolts on one pitch. Some UK 4c climbing and plenty of 4a. Single rope is fine, full rack advisable as pitches are long. Ascent and descent are not unduly arduous and fairly straightforward for the attentive. Headtorch!
Show beta
βeta: A brilliant route in a fantastic situation. Not much fixed gear, though some bolted belays and a few bolts on one pitch. Some UK 4c climbing and plenty of 4a. Single rope is fine, full rack advisable as pitches are long. Ascent and descent are not unduly arduous and fairly straightforward for the attentive. Headtorch!
Paul Evans 9 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic day out - we had brilliant weather. If you use 60m ropes you can run pitches together, we did it in 10 rather than 13. About half the route is fairly easy scrambling, the rest around vd-sev. The Mark Glaister writeup in the Apr (?) 2006 climber on this route is well worth getting - has some updates to the Rockfax desc. It also has a picture of the finish "red dot" you're aiming for at the top of pitch 13. From this, contour around about 20-30m to the right, at the same height, for the start of the cables. When you get to the end of the cables don't be tempted to descend, keep going across and down, following path, cairns and red dots. The descent would be "interesting" in cloud - and downright worrying at night...don't forget your headtorch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic day out - we had brilliant weather. If you use 60m ropes you can run pitches together, we did it in 10 rather than 13. About half the route is fairly easy scrambling, the rest around vd-sev. The Mark Glaister writeup in the Apr (?) 2006 climber on this route is well worth getting - has some updates to the Rockfax desc. It also has a picture of the finish "red dot" you're aiming for at the top of pitch 13. From this, contour around about 20-30m to the right, at the same height, for the start of the cables. When you get to the end of the cables don't be tempted to descend, keep going across and down, following path, cairns and red dots. The descent would be "interesting" in cloud - and downright worrying at night...don't forget your headtorch!
sheffieldchris 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: lots of new bolts at the higher belays, route finding lower down harder than higher pitches where you can follow the bulk of the worn rock. on the traverse pitch dont be tempted to follow the tat up before the move around the arete, the tat is where people have gone wrong and put something in to lower back onto route. follow the red dots and cables all the way to the scree
Show beta
βeta: lots of new bolts at the higher belays, route finding lower down harder than higher pitches where you can follow the bulk of the worn rock. on the traverse pitch dont be tempted to follow the tat up before the move around the arete, the tat is where people have gone wrong and put something in to lower back onto route. follow the red dots and cables all the way to the scree
sheffieldchris 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: big day out, sat in car waiting for just enough light to set off on walk, takes about an hour to get to bottom of the gully you use if you want to miss out the first 3 pitches. Did'nt have too much problems following the route, stuck to the most worn bits of rock though where it is easier thats all over. near the final sections a few what felt like harder moves for the grade on each pitch but soon past then and onto big jugs. went past some of the earlier belays but higher up a lot of new bolts have been put in on the belays. says there is a 2 foot red dot where you need to end climb and start traverse path?? never saw it but just to left of a big bush as you look up half way up final pitch there is a new 8 inch bright red dot, level with this is a big ledge follow it right all way round and you will come to a short corner decent protected by a wire cable. We had no trouble getting down as long as you keep going on the wire and red dots and cairnes all the way to where the scree of the path up meets the path down. car to car was 8 hours
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: big day out, sat in car waiting for just enough light to set off on walk, takes about an hour to get to bottom of the gully you use if you want to miss out the first 3 pitches. Did'nt have too much problems following the route, stuck to the most worn bits of rock though where it is easier thats all over. near the final sections a few what felt like harder moves for the grade on each pitch but soon past then and onto big jugs. went past some of the earlier belays but higher up a lot of new bolts have been put in on the belays. says there is a 2 foot red dot where you need to end climb and start traverse path?? never saw it but just to left of a big bush as you look up half way up final pitch there is a new 8 inch bright red dot, level with this is a big ledge follow it right all way round and you will come to a short corner decent protected by a wire cable. We had no trouble getting down as long as you keep going on the wire and red dots and cairnes all the way to where the scree of the path up meets the path down. car to car was 8 hours

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Style of Ascent
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Followed
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Dogged
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Route of Interest
El Realet Ridge

Grade: 4c ***
(Castellets)

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