Parking is at the beach end near some public toilets. Between South Stack and Trearddur Bay. Coastal paths lead in both directions for access.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are nesting choughs near “Yellow Brick Road”, and at “The Hanging Basket of Babylon” to “The Blue Horse”. Please avoid all of these routes during nesting seasons.
Rockfax Description
The original route is well worth seeking out. Start from ledges on the left of the zawn at low tide.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb a black overhanging corner on good holds trending right to gain a ledge at 10m. Continue up and right via a short wall to another bigger ledge and stance.
2) 4b, 12m. Follow a superb exposed line out right across the yellow headwall of the cave. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An excellent mini-adventure taking 3 consecutive walls rising above the sea, each wall getting slightly easier but more exposed. P1 - climb overhung corner via it's right wall, with some strenuous and committing moves to reach a ledge (5a), then climb the next wall with similar commitment to the next ledge (4c), and a good belay included a big cam. P2 - climb the final wall traversing rightwards via obvious tramlines in a fine position (4b).
M Hellewel, G Sutton 2014.
The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside)
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)