Restricted Access

Parking is at the beach end near some public toilets. Between South Stack and Trearddur Bay. Coastal paths lead in both directions for access. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are nesting choughs near “Yellow Brick Road”, and at “The Hanging Basket of Babylon” to “The Blue Horse”. Please avoid all of these routes during nesting seasons. 

32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The original route is well worth seeking out. Start from ledges on the left of the zawn at low tide.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb a black overhanging corner on good holds trending right to gain a ledge at 10m. Continue up and right via a short wall to another bigger ledge and stance.
2) 4b, 12m. Follow a superb exposed line out right across the yellow headwall of the cave. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent mini-adventure taking 3 consecutive walls rising above the sea, each wall getting slightly easier but more exposed. P1 - climb overhung corner via it's right wall, with some strenuous and committing moves to reach a ledge (5a), then climb the next wall with similar commitment to the next ledge (4c), and a good belay included a big cam. P2 - climb the final wall traversing rightwards via obvious tramlines in a fine position (4b).

M Hellewel, G Sutton 2014.

Ticklists

The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 10
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Dream of White Horses

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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