40m, 2 pitches. Found on the clean orange wall, facing the sea on the east side of Porth Ceiriad. Start on the left of the cave.
Pitch 1: 6b. Ascend the obvious RH crackline to the roof, Pull over this, strenuous and blind. Belay on the commodious ledge below the smooth headwall.
Pitch 2: 6b. Up the obvious thin crackline above the belay, poor rock initially, until good holds where the crack terminates, good small cams. From here pull left, and get established in the next crack system, crux. Follow this to the top, past another hard move, to gain good holds where the crack widens and an easier finish.
Those strong at the grade have linked both pitches into one.

Dan McManus May/2007.


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Route of Interest
Brass Butterfly

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)

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