29m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Varied climbing with two contrasting pitches. Start on a large, flat ledge below a wide, rounded crack. The first pitch has suffered a rockfall but is still climbable at a similar overall grade.
1) 5c, 17m. Climb the wide rounded crack to a horizontal crack in the right wall. Traverse the crack right to just past the arete and then move up the wall to a good ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 12m. Climb the thin and fingery corner above the ledge to the top. A good piece of climbing. © Rockfax

R Edwards, R Perriment 16/Mar/1980.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sophie Nunn 14 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Rock scar was a lot bigger than in the cc guidebook photo, still good on the traverse though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock scar was a lot bigger than in the cc guidebook photo, still good on the traverse though
Marl 12 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be aware that a substantial amount of rock seems to have fallen away from the horizontal break on first pitch, possibly making route slightly more difficult.
Show beta
βeta: Be aware that a substantial amount of rock seems to have fallen away from the horizontal break on first pitch, possibly making route slightly more difficult.
rustaldo 7 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Significantly more rock fall now affecting P1 compared to photo on here. Might be possible as foot traverse? Tried to stick to original line - hand traverse now harder, i personally think about 5c, some good cam placements but care needed to avoid blocking hand holds. Poor foot holds which are quite spaced out. Pumpy on the arms and committing.
Show beta
βeta: Significantly more rock fall now affecting P1 compared to photo on here. Might be possible as foot traverse? Tried to stick to original line - hand traverse now harder, i personally think about 5c, some good cam placements but care needed to avoid blocking hand holds. Poor foot holds which are quite spaced out. Pumpy on the arms and committing.
beni 11 Apr, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rock fall on first pitch, probably first pitch is now 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock fall on first pitch, probably first pitch is now 5a.

Logged Ascents

121 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Pordenack Point Area

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 33 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Earthly Powers

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Whirl Pool Buttress)

Loading Notifications...