UKH

142m, 4 pitches. E2,4a, 5a, 5c, 4a (2 aid pts) Start: 8m left of a prominent square overhang at the right-hand side of the buttress in a small pink gully, about 60m below the foot of the diedre and right of the slab tongue at the start of Nightshade.

60m Scramble up to the chimney at the foot of the diedre.
15m Climb chimney to where it narrows, belay below diedre.
20m Traverse down left to grass ledge. Descend grass strip to small foothold on the left and a sloping shelf below fine crack on the left. Gain sloping ledge and with a long reach gain good flake handhold. Continue up crack passing spike on left, and good holds on the left wall to reach arete. Cross the arete and continue left over a cracked slab to huge block and a small tree.
30m Make delicate moves right with increasing difficulty to gain flake at foot of corner. Climb corner until forced onto the right wall. Move up wall onto arete on good holds. Using two nuts for aid in crack parallel to arete step down left to crack and ledge. Gain ledge with difficulty. Up overhang to ledge above (crux). From second ledge move left to large ledge (difficult) and belay in crack in round the corner to the left.
17m As for pitch 7 of Nightshade - up corner to the top.P

C. Torrans. C. Sheridan 13/Jun/1978.

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Ireland 3 Star E1-E2

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Route of Interest

The Donkey Jumped Over the Moon

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Owey Island)
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