Big Micheluzzi's little brother, this route is a superb climb with varied and enjoyable pitches and a fantastic traverse on sculpted holds at half-height. A classic of the face.
Start 10m left of the gully which splits the face, at the base of an easy ramp leading right.
1) III, 30m. Follow the series of ledges right (beware of seepage).
2) II, 15m. Continue right to a stance at the base of a chimney.
3) III+, 25m. Climb the chimney then move right to a vegetated clearing. Move left then direct up a series of gravel terraces and move behind a boulder to a ring belay.
4) II, 50m. Continue leftwards up a blocky and somewhat loose ramp, passing below a large crack to a stance on a good ledge.
5) III, 25m. Climb a narrow chimney before moving left over ledges. Move right again to a stance below a large grassy ramp on the left.
6) V-, 45. Ignore the grassy ramp and instead climb direct to a belay ring then traverse right on good holds. Continue more direct, still on excellent rock with plenty of gear before following the logical traverse right to a yellow niche. Belay on the right side of the cave. An excellent pitch.
7) IV, 30m. Exit the cave on the right, following the red arrow which points around the corner. Route finding becomes slightly harder here but follow the worn holds direct, then right for a few metres, before climbing direct again to another yellow cave (possible stance). Pass this and move left to the belay.
8) IV, 35m. Step left from the stance and move left to a series of chimney-cracks. Climb the middle of the three (although all three variants are possible) on good holds to reach the terraces below the Chamois Terrace. Belay in a small cave. © Rockfax
Micheluzzi, Rogers, Slocovich 14 Aug 1928.
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