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Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most illustrious sea-cliff challenges, following a spectacular line of flake-cracks up the lower portion of the Great Wall and finishing up the narrow central corner. The second pitch was for many years climbed with a peg for aid at 5b but this has now gone. Start below a small corner at the base of the left side of the wall.
1) 5a, 30m. Move steeply up the corner, which eases as it trends left to a triangular niche. Move right and take cracks to a rest below double overhangs. Undercut wildly left between the overhangs and continue up the wide crack to a stance at its top.
2) 6a, 12m. Climb the corner/groove above to its end before traversing rightwards to a stance at the base of a corner.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner, which is technical and sustained in its lower half to an obvious exit on the right at its end. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is no longer a peg at the crux, in spite of various trolls on UKC forums,this has not been replaced by a bolt, the consensus seems to be that Pentire should remain bolt free. Adequate protection can be arranged to protect the crux many people think it is safer to run the first two pitches together.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
barny 1982 Show βeta
βeta: Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 20
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grand Plage Variation Start

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Carn Barra)