UKH Hills - 'Eroica'

Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most illustrious sea-cliff challenges follows a spectacular line of flake cracks up the lower Great Wall and finishes up the narrow central corner. Start below a small corner at the base of the left side of the wall.
1) 4c, 22m. Move steeply up the corner, which eases as it trends left to a triangular niche. Move right and take cracks to a semi-hanging stance on threads below double overhangs.
2) 6a, 25m. Undercut wildly left between the overhangs and continue up the wide crack above to a ledge at its top. Climb the technical corner/groove above to its end before traversing rightwards to a stance at the base of a corner.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner, which is technical and sustained in its lower half to an exit on the right at its end. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is no longer a peg at the crux, in spite of various trolls on UKC forums,this has not been replaced by a bolt, the consensus seems to be that Pentire should remain bolt free. Adequate protection can be arranged to protect the crux many people think it is safer to run the first two pitches together.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , West Country Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West in Extremis , Cornwall

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User	Date		Notes
Misha	26 May	Show βeta βeta: Don’t use the thread at the first belay, the block is pretty hollow. There is gear below both flakes above. As to how long those flakes will last, who knows…	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Don’t use the thread at the first belay, the block is pretty hollow. There is gear below both flakes above. As to how long those flakes will last, who knows…
Tom Hill	5 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Got by fine without any cams larger than big yellow. Opposing nuts at the crux made the gear bomber. The top of the flake/jug at the belay below the top corner is slightly loose sounding but there are good placements above and below.
Show beta βeta: Got by fine without any cams larger than big yellow. Opposing nuts at the crux made the gear bomber. The top of the flake/jug at the belay below the top corner is slightly loose sounding but there are good placements above and below.
Tall Oak	16 Oct, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Leading the aide section is bold. Very bold. Scary indeed. Glad to be on second for that Def recommend including the former aid part in the first pitch with 60m ropes. Leaving only the lay back section for second pitch. Second pitch was rather green and slippery. Came off but managed to hold on and not drop. Good thing fear is sometimes as my left hand suddenly had the force of Zeus to keep grip.
Show beta βeta: Leading the aide section is bold. Very bold. Scary indeed. Glad to be on second for that Def recommend including the former aid part in the first pitch with 60m ropes. Leaving only the lay back section for second pitch. Second pitch was rather green and slippery. Came off but managed to hold on and not drop. Good thing fear is sometimes as my left hand suddenly had the force of Zeus to keep grip.
Steve Claw	8 Oct, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Recommend running first pitch into crux and belay at the base of the top grove. Rope dag is a bit of an issue, but it avoids a dangerous F2 fall potential.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Recommend running first pitch into crux and belay at the base of the top grove. Rope dag is a bit of an issue, but it avoids a dangerous F2 fall potential.
barny	1982	Show βeta βeta: Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.