A legendary Culm Coast line that just about stays free enough of vegetation in its upper third to retain its status. The climbing is extremely sustained and the positions are fly-on-the-wall like.Start below the thin crack-system that shoots up to a stuck-on pancake of rock high up near the right arete.Gain a ledge at 3m from the right. From the left end of the ledge, climb the thin crack, past a peg, to better holds and gear. Continue up the crack before stepping right to another crack just below the pancake. Pass the pancake on its left side and continue directly up the wall on good, but spaced holds to the top. The original finish stepped right onto the top of the pancake and finished up the arete. Both finishes are vegetated. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A difficult start to the peg (a friend just above Will suffice - may have to do in stages). Climb the crack using nice finger and toe jams and then veer right to base of pancake. Pull (with care - loose) on arete to an easy but atmospheric finish. Sling belay around rock pinnacles further back. Full rope length abseil required after on old slings, rope and crabs but ok (at least as of sept 07)
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.
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