UKH

5 pitches. A fine way to avoid the polish and chalk on The Original Route and maximise the chance of sunstroke and adventure. The route description in GL's Scottish Rock has several features in the wrong order, so instead: P1: As for Original Route. P2: Climb the corner above, up a short sandy wall to a flake, up this to a ledge and walk along this for 12m to belay at it's obvious end, kicking fulmars off as you go. P3: Directly up past a rotting peg, then trend left to belay in on a big ledge below a vulgar cleft. P4: Grovel up the cleft through 3 flared bulges to a 4th bulge with a green jamming crack, battle this then step right (useful belay) to more of the same cleft. Up this to the grass haven and kick steps to belay on blocks at the top. P5: Step left from blocks onto a short wall, pull over the lip and move right and up the obvious chimney/corner, finish past numerous death blocks to the Original Route belay.

Joe Brown and Ian McNaught Davis 09/Jul/1967.

Ticklists

Joe Brown in Scotland , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

9 users have logged this

Guidebooks for (Old Man of) Hoy

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 13 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 3
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Summer's End

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Yesnaby)

Loading Notifications...