A great route; one of the better E5s in the quarries, though still a serious one. Start below the stepped roofs and ascend the groove under them until you can make a move left to go up to an iron spike. Gain and follow the sustained flake until bolts can be seen above and right on Igam-Ogam (p.§§§). Either move out to these and climb to the top (safe but hard), or continue up to a rest and poor gear. Trend up and left to a sloping ledge on the edge of the buttress and make your way very boldly to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An interesting route with a small iron spike for the crux. Climb desperately to the spike. Make a hard move to gain height above it up to a rest point (try not to fall onto spike as this will change your sexual orientation). Go up rib to overlap the follow the line of hold to the left of the arete. You can potentially use the bolts on Igam Ogam for protection. Take a second rope to belay at the top.
M E Crook, N Walton, AD Newton Feb/1984.
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