Restricted Access
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
The long corner in the centre of the face is one of the classic climbs of its grade in Britain; it does get busy though. Climb the corner to a ledge at half-height (possible belay). Continue up the corner above, passing the small overhang on the left.
At low tide, an alternative and wonderful approach can be made across the bay by descending as for Gun Cliff which requires a short abseil from solid rings (possible to use and retrieve your climbing ropes if necessary). Once down the walk across to Mowing Word is spectacular and you can even go through the huge sea tunnel. You still need to traverse the breaks to get to the base of the groove. © Rockfax
FA. C.Mortlock, R.Stephens 30/May/1967.
Ticklists
Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , The Best of Pembroke , Orange Spot Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Libby Peter's HS Hit List , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , 2020/21 Trips , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembs Classics
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Green_t | 13 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Razorbills nesting on ledges to climbers right. This route is included in bird ban as per BMC RAD so do not abseil down. Several parties over Easter weekend still abseiled and climbed in this area despite obvious bird activity on ledges. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Razorbills nesting on ledges to climbers right. This route is included in bird ban as per BMC RAD so do not abseil down. Several parties over Easter weekend still abseiled and climbed in this area despite obvious bird activity on ledges. |
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| Nonwilliams | 29 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Razorbills nesting in this area- don't climb | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Razorbills nesting in this area- don't climb |
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| eldre070 | 21 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Led in one long pitch. Fab route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Led in one long pitch. Fab route. |
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| Steve Bartle | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: There\'s a big obvious, football sized, block right near the top of the exit groove that is loose and not well supported. Try to avoid pulling/standing on it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There's a big obvious, football sized, block right near the top of the exit groove that is loose and not well supported. Try to avoid pulling/standing on it! |
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| Eloise Horsfield | 29 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely to climb this (in one pitch) as the sun set behind me. Unfortunately I dropped a set of five offset nuts into the sea right at the bottom of the route. Oh no!! They slipped between two rocks; despite our best efforts to dive down and get them, we couldn't see a thing. We just ended up getting very cold. Hope someone else got to them before they got too salty | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lovely to climb this (in one pitch) as the sun set behind me. Unfortunately I dropped a set of five offset nuts into the sea right at the bottom of the route. Oh no!! They slipped between two rocks; despite our best efforts to dive down and get them, we couldn't see a thing. We just ended up getting very cold. Hope someone else got to them before they got too salty |
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| alan moore | 31 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abseiling in is a travesty: Approach from across the bay at low tide and traverse throught the truly astounding tunnel. A short sea level traverse at Mod standard gains the start. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Abseiling in is a travesty: Approach from across the bay at low tide and traverse throught the truly astounding tunnel. A short sea level traverse at Mod standard gains the start. |
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| Sam and will | 14 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: a fantastic route, probably the best HS i have ever done. definately worthy of the 3 stars | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: a fantastic route, probably the best HS i have ever done. definately worthy of the 3 stars |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mowing Word
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Myola
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stennis Head)