UKH

70m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best HVS's in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and exposure. Best done in the afternoon to give the cave a chance to dry out. Start from the ledge, as described above.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb up the arete on the left to reach the line of breaks. Follow the breaks leftwards into the corner then step down. Continue traversing to a small ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4c, 25m. Move left to a small corner then climb up to the belay ledge of Razorbill. Move left again then drop slightly down and follow the breaks into Diedre Sud.
3) 4a, 15m. Finish up Diedre Sud. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, J.Greenland 13/Aug/1971.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, HVS Adventures, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 101Pembroke Extremes, AMC Uni Ticklist, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, 2016 Targets, Orange Spot Pembroke, High Quality Adventure routes, Extreme Girdle, Pembroke Goalz, UK Holiday Plans, Beginners Pembroke, Traverses of trady radness, 2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The description on here for p2 is not very good; CC guide is good but topo doesn't show the downclimb off the belay really. From the first belay, climb down so your hands are about level with where your feet were. Then you traverse for a few meters until an obvious climb up a blocky section which is the belay for some other routes. Then you climb down again to re-join the traverse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The description on here for p2 is not very good; CC guide is good but topo doesn't show the downclimb off the belay really. From the first belay, climb down so your hands are about level with where your feet were. Then you traverse for a few meters until an obvious climb up a blocky section which is the belay for some other routes. Then you climb down again to re-join the traverse.
derekm 4 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Wow!!! Just as good to second as to lead, never hard just utterly gripping.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wow!!! Just as good to second as to lead, never hard just utterly gripping.
Reds 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Truly a great 'experience' - I seconded it and it was scary - not at all like seconding your average HVS!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Truly a great 'experience' - I seconded it and it was scary - not at all like seconding your average HVS!

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Route of Interest

Riders on the Storm

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stennis Head)
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