Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

35m.

Rockfax Description
A stupendous expedition weaving across the entire crag to finish up the hanging corner above the Alien Cave. Can be split into two pitches, using the base of the groove. From the Beat Ledge, traverse steadily rightwards, keeping just above the cave lip, to gain the exposed arete. Take either of the two good cracks (the lower one is recommended) to swing into the welded-flowstone corner on the right, and continue up this to the top (7a S3). © Rockfax

FSA. Crispin Waddy 28/May/1991.

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke , James' Summer Ticklist , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Pembroke dreams

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Logged Ascents

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
DWS
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Route of Interest
In One Door

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Mowing Word)

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