Rockfax Description
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
This route makes the most of the Space Face by taking an intricate diagonal line across it.
1) 6a, 15m. Follow a right-trending wide crack for 5m, then move back left on big holds to a thread. Go straight up from this to a hole, then move right to another hole. Pull into the groove above and the belay of Warp Factor.
2) 5c, 10m. Move up to some juggy pockets which lead rightwards, past some threads, to the stance of Mother Night.
3) 5c, 20m. Pull out right from the stance to below an open groove. Traverse right across the blank wall to a good pocket. Follow the crackline above, moving right around the bulge at the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 06/May/1979.
Ticklists
Trad climbs for sport climbers , 101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Pembroke dreams
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tom Briggs | 24 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Air Raid
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Mount Sion East)