Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A superb and popular route. Start beneath a left-facing groove in the middle of the south face of the buttress. Climb over a small roof into the groove and follow this to the top of the big pedestal (possible belay if the sea is threatening). Climb up and left past a deep crack to gain a rising crackline. Follow this and at its end climb direct to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Broomhead Apr/1976.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembs Ticklist , Cianchi's Hit List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Hilarious watching Coney drop a set of nuts before the crux. Fair play for keeping his composure and sailing on. I would have been losing my head watching in horror as the key set of mid-range nuts lands in the swell. This is defo harder than Strait Gates. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hilarious watching Coney drop a set of nuts before the crux. Fair play for keeping his composure and sailing on. I would have been losing my head watching in horror as the key set of mid-range nuts lands in the swell. This is defo harder than Strait Gates. |
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| PaulTanton | 1 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Bang on for the grade. No hard moves just a lot of good moves | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bang on for the grade. No hard moves just a lot of good moves |
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| plant_based_tommo | 3 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: great! sustained wall climbing with as much bomber gear as you could shake a rack at. | βeta? | |
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βeta: great! sustained wall climbing with as much bomber gear as you could shake a rack at. |
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| Tommy_shaw | 6 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Wow, what an amazing route, very sustained all the way. Found leaving the middle shelf into the right diagonal crack quite tricky, but dig deep and chipped away to the top!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wow, what an amazing route, very sustained all the way. Found leaving the middle shelf into the right diagonal crack quite tricky, but dig deep and chipped away to the top!! |
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| Gareth H | 12 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Direct finish worthwhile, pumpy but about E3. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Direct finish worthwhile, pumpy but about E3. |
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| geoffgo21 | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A really great route | βeta? | |
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βeta: A really great route |
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| huwtj | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Didn't seem that low in the grade. Sustained climbing but well protected. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didn't seem that low in the grade. Sustained climbing but well protected. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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First Blood
Grade: E2 5c ***
(St. Govan's East)