Rockfax Description
Ideal for a half-day outing. The rock and climbing are not exceptional in the lower part because it crosses a series of vegetated ledges, but improves higher up, culminating in three enjoyable pitches in the upper half. Partially bolted.
Start below a flake, about 60m right of the prominent chimney which characterises the left side of Monte Popena Basso.
1) IV, 30m. Climb up to a flake and climb this before moving left into a chimney. Follow this then exit left onto a good ledge. Follow this to the stance.
2) IV, 30m. Climb leftwards to a higher vegetated ledge.
3) IV+, 45m. Climb a slab direct, or move right to a loose crack and follow this, to reach a small ledge (possible belay). Continue direct to the next ledge.
4) VI-, 20m. Climb a steep slab, then move left, before continuing direct to a stance below a detached boulder.
5) V+, 25m. Climb a corner above, then make a technical move out right and continue to reach a yellow roof. Traverse left below this then climb a short vegetated corner.
6) IV, 25m. Move right into a chimney and climb this to the summit plateau. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The decription is found in the Bernardi guidebook. The first three pitches are a little unremarkable but pitches 4 and 5 are worthwhile. It is a good option for a short day.
Cipriani and Vacca 1995.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
PikaiFi | 3 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch one as described. We didn’t find the belay of pitch 2, so we belayed on the supposed intermediate of pitch 3 (45-50m). Then we climbed the rest of pitch 3 with pitch 4. Except this the description is correct. The bolts helps in routefinding. But be carefull! The first bolts you meet when you are at the base of the clif is of a 2021 sport route. Go further left! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pitch one as described. We didn’t find the belay of pitch 2, so we belayed on the supposed intermediate of pitch 3 (45-50m). Then we climbed the rest of pitch 3 with pitch 4. Except this the description is correct. The bolts helps in routefinding. But be carefull! The first bolts you meet when you are at the base of the clif is of a 2021 sport route. Go further left! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VI- ***
(Brenta Group)