Ideal for a half-day outing. The rock and climbing are not exceptional in the lower part because it crosses a series of vegetated ledges, but improves higher up, culminating in three enjoyable pitches in the upper half. Partially bolted.
Start below a flake, about 60m right of the prominent chimney which characterises the left side of Monte Popena Basso.
1) IV, 30m. Climb up to a flake and climb this before moving left into a chimney. Follow this then exit left onto a good ledge. Follow this to the stance.
2) IV, 30m. Climb leftwards to a higher vegetated ledge.
3) IV+, 45m. Climb a slab direct, or move right to a loose crack and follow this, to reach a small ledge (possible belay). Continue direct to the next ledge.
4) VI-, 20m. Climb a steep slab, then move left, before continuing direct to a stance below a detached boulder.
5) V+, 25m. Climb a corner above, then make a technical move out right and continue to reach a yellow roof. Traverse left below this then climb a short vegetated corner.
6) IV, 25m. Move right into a chimney and climb this to the summit plateau. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The decription is found in the Bernardi guidebook. The first three pitches are a little unremarkable but pitches 4 and 5 are worthwhile. It is a good option for a short day.
Cipriani and Vacca 1995.
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