Rockfax Description
A great via ferrata that picks its way along the ridges and tunnels of Monte Paterno with great views of the Tre Cime north faces and surrounding area. The climbing is fairly straightforward and not recommended for those only seeking a climbing experience. The views are stunning in all directions however and it is good for anyone looking for a relaxing day at the Tre Cime whilst taking in the sights and it is particularly good for those with a keen interest in the history of the area. The route is dedicated to Piero de Luca and Sepp Innerkofler who were both accomplished mountaineers during the war. Their local knowledge of the surrounding peaks and positions were central to the military campaign in the area. Sadly Innerkofler fell to his death during a skirmish on this mountain.
Because of its close proximity to the Tre Cime and amenable grade the route can get very busy during peak season. The via ferrata can be done either way around (and often is so expect to encounter two-way traffic), though here it is described starting at Rifugio Locatelli and finishing at Forcella Lavaredo. There are a number of tunnels on the route and a head torch is essential.
Approach - Park at Rifugio Auronzo at the top of the toll road as for the other Tre Cime climbs From Rifugio Auronzo, follow path 101 east on a good track signed towards 'Rifugio Lavaredo'. About 50m before you reach the rifugio, branch off left, still on path 101, signed towards 'Forcella Lavaredo'and 'Rifugio Locatelli'. Once at Forcella Lavaredo you can see Rifugio Locatelli on the horizon to the north. Continue on path 101, contouring under the spiky ridge of Monte Paterno, until you reach Rifugio Locatelli. Once at the rifugio, double back on yourself heading southeast and following signs for the via ferrata.
VF - After 10 minutes of walking up the ridge-line you encounter the start of the route in the form of 500m of tunnel. Though there are some lookout windows there isn't much in the way of light and a head torch is essential here. The tunnels head uphill, getting increasingly steeper, until they bring you out onto a rocky shelf. The wire continues up a steeper section of wall until you reach Forcella del Camoscio - a large col.
From here you get an optional ascent to the summit of Monte Paterno which is well worth doing for the views. To go up to the summit, follow the wire up a steep-looking wall to the right. Shortly after the wire splits and there are two possible ways to ascend. Both are roughly the same difficulty, so go with whichever is the quietest! Follow cairned scree to the summit and a fantastic panorama. To continue, return the way you came back down to Forcella del Camoscio.
From the col, descend a loose and unpleasant gully to the south before rejoining the wire (don't follow Sentiero delle Forcelle which leads away to the east). The way is now easier with intermittent sections of wire and easy scrambling. Pass a second col until you reach an open area with good views of the Tre Cime and Forcella Lavaredo. A short tunnel leading off to the right brings you around onto the west side of the ridge. Follow this into a final tunnel with a very tight and entertaining squeeze. The path then drops you back down to Forcella Lavaredo and the end of the route.
Descent - From Forcella Lavaredo the quickest way back to Rifugio Auronzo and the car park is to retrace your steps past Rifugio Lavaredo.
To make a complete circle, and for a longer day, it is possible to walk around the Tre Cime via the north and then west side. From Forcella Lavaredo, follow an unmarked but good path through the scree in front of the Tre Cime north faces until you get to the large path 105 just past the end of Cima Ovest. If you need refreshments the Lange Alm Hutte is just to the right and is well worth a visit. To return to Rifugio Auronzo and the car, turn left on path 105 heading south.
Note - From Forcella Lavaredo there is a climbers' path that leads directly under the north faces - this is not advised because of potential rockfall from any climbers on routes above. © Rockfax


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

46 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Monte Paterno

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 21 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High VF2C
Mid VF2C
Low VF2C
High VF2B
Mid VF2B
Low VF2B
High VF2A
Mid VF2A
Low VF2A
High VF1D
Mid VF1D
Low VF1D
High VF1C
Mid VF1C
Low VF1C
High VF1B
Mid VF1B
Low VF1B
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Masare (VF)

Grade: VF2B ***
(Roda di Vaèl)

Loading Notifications...