III, 320m. When Michel Piola describes a route as the best one he's equipped on granite, you know it's good! The best way to start is to climb the first four pitches of the neighbouring route, L'Élixir d'Astaroth (not described) before joining Voyage proper. The route is described this way. 1) 6b+, 25m. Climb a crack to below a roof and climb around this to the right. No pushover straight off the deck!2) 6b+, 35m. Move left and climb the superb slabby crack. This is technical and feels bold for the last few metres.3) 6c, 20m. Continue up the same crack system to avoid a small roof on the left.4) 4a, 30m. Scramble easily leftwards up ledges to a belay beneath steep, golden flakes.5) 6a+, 15m. Superb climbing up the flakes brings you to a small ledge below and right of a clean slab.6) 6c, 35m. Pad out up and left across the stunning clean slab, passing a couple of (very welcome) bolts.7) 6b+, 15m. Step right and climb up to reach the slab above. Follow this where it meets a steep wall leftwards.8) 7b, 25m. Make an extremely tenuous traverse out left up the vague corner and follow this to a small ledge.9) 6a, 25m. Climb the flaky twin cracks directly above the belay. 10) 6c, 25m. Move slightly left from the belay and follow the flake above to avoid the roof. This feels bold and the situation only adds to the experience!11) 7a, 20m. Follow the thin and poorly protected crack as it curves up and left. There are two bolts and a peg to ease the fear slightly!12) 7b, 15m. Either downclimb (7b) or make a 2m pendulum into a crack system on the left and follow this with sustained difficulty (7a). 13) 6a+, 20m. Climb diagonally rightwards to belay at the far right end of a roof.14) 6a, 15m. Climb the wide corner-crack above to join the Swiss Route.Descent - The best descent is by abseil down the a combination of the belays of Voyage selon Gulliver and a neighbouring (undescribed) line called L'Élixir d'Astaroth. It takes a direct line and has well-equipped belays which lead you back to the end of pitch 4 of the Swiss Route, from where it is possible to descend via the line of ascent. 2 x 50m ropes are necessary for the abseil lines. The peak is covered in many other routes so there are belays everywhere. Try to stick to a line when descending in order to avoid getting a rope stuck or abseiling into overhanging terrain. It is also possible to abseil down O Sole Mio, an undescribed route to the left of the Swiss Route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Hard free climb to the right of the Swiss Route.
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