III, 215m. A fantastic, sustained Vogler route that has some stunning finger crack climbing. Start by scrambling up to the large terrace.
1) 6a, 30m. Follow a crack up to easier ground where a ramp, leads out right. Build a belay here.
2) 6c+, 45m. Don't follow the ramp out right, but instead climb the steep, strenuous wall on the left (bolts), gaining an amazing finger crack. Follow this to a belay on the left.
3) 6c, 25m. More brilliant finger crack. Follow this up rightwards to a belay, passing a couple of bolts.
4) 6a, 35m. A break! Follow the easier crack up and right.
5) 6c+, 40m. Climb the wide crack on the left, passing a roof on the left to gain a hand sized crack that leads to a ledge.
6) 5c, 25m. Climb delicately up and rightwards over broken ground towards the base of a steep wall split by a thin crack.
7) 6c+, A great pitch! Climb the thin crack that peters out and gives way to face climbing passing some bolts along the way.
8) 6b+, Climb directly up from the belay before gaining a crack on the right. Follow this to a ramp and then a small steepening on the right. Tackle this directly passing bolts. Keep heading up to a belay on the summit.
Descent - Abseil from the 6th belay direct to the 4th (with 60s, if not, there is an intermediate off line). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1 20m 5c/6a
P2 30m 6c/7a Thin crack
P3 45m 6c
P4 30m 6a
P5 35m 6c Off Width followed by hand jams.
P6 40m 5c/6a
P7 35m 6c+
P8 30m 6b Abseil back down the line.
Alain Studer et Romain Vogler 09/Aug/1990.
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