UKH

450m.

Rockfax Description
IV, 450m. A breathtaking line that does what it says on the tin - finds a plumb line straight up the towering East Face. As with its neighbour, the first ascensionists did not use bolts to find their way up this steep and imposing route. Even harder for the modern climber to comprehend is that they will also have been without large cams, which you will be glad you carried! The top part of the route after the crux pitch swings around onto the North Face. It is often iced up and involves a degree of peg pulling or goes free at 7b. A lot of teams finish up the Bonatti to stay in the sun or abseil here. Start immediately below and right of a large overhang, 35m up the wall.
1) 5a. Follow the crack system above the starting ledges.
2) 5c. Crack system then corner.
3) 5c. Continue up the corner.
4) 6b. Climb corner crack to a roof and pass it on the right. Move out right to the belay.
5) 5c, Climb the right hand crack.
6) 6b. Climb the steep corner crack and trend leftwards.
7) 6b. Climb the crack to join pitch 8 of the Bonatti-Ghigo. passing the large roofs that split the face.
8) 6b. Continue up steep cracks and climb past an overhang by avoiding it on the right. This is pitch 9 of the Bonatti-Ghigo.
9) 6a. Follow a curving crack right to a stance below an imposing roof flake.
10) 6c+. Climb up to reach the roof flake and follow this out rightwards via some strenuous moves, at which point those big cams will not seem nearly as much of a burden. Above, easier moves lead up and rightwards to the large ledge where the route once again meets the Bonatti-Ghigo.
(In order to avoid the upcoming cold and often icy pitches on the North Face, many teams finish up the Bonatti-Ghigo. This allows you to continue climbing in the sun but does mean that you have to tackle some pretty stiff climbing, which is arguably harder than anything you will have done thus far).
11) 6a. Move across the ledge to the North Face and then climb the wide crack above the ledge in a long pitch.
12) 6b. Climb the right hand pegged crack.
13) 6a+. Climb more pegged cracks above, passing back left on a ledge.
14) 5c. Climb the crack above the ledge passing a roof to exit onto easier ground near the ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Big crack system on rhs of east face

Boivin, Bellin, Moioli Jul/1983.

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User Date Notes
Matthew Glenn 21 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Spent 2 hours doing the 'straightforward pitches' on the north face. So many pegs everywhere ! Ended up questing up unprotected delicate seams. Should have finished up bonatti ghio.
Show beta
βeta: Spent 2 hours doing the 'straightforward pitches' on the north face. So many pegs everywhere ! Ended up questing up unprotected delicate seams. Should have finished up bonatti ghio.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Amok

Grade: ED1 6b+ ***
(Envers des Aiguilles)

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