Rockfax Description
III, 230m. A superb crack climb. The first two-thirds of the route follows a ramp system and provides pitch after pitch of excellent climbing. The first pitch didn't exist in years past, but glacial retreat has created it and it now forms the crux of the route.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the slabby grey crack below and left of the small overhang. This is tough and most people pull on some of the pegs that mark the route, in which case the grade is 6a. Step right and climb up just left of the overhang and continue 5m to a small ledge on a slab.
2) 5c, 35m. Climb the slab and the corner above, and step left to a ledge.
3) 5c, 20m. Follow the corner and move out left to a belay beneath a slab.
4) 6a, 20m. Follow the crack up and right across the slab and continue up the stunning corner.
5) 5c, 35m. The corner widens and becomes a chimney. Follow it to a sloping ledge on the left.
6) 5c, 40m. Continue up the corner/chimney as it becomes increasingly blocky. After 35m it reaches a ledge beneath a 5m wide chimney. Belay at the bottom right of this.
7) 5c, 30m. Climb the crack on the right-hand wall of the chimney and move right at the top to belay.
8) 4c, 25m. Follow crack systems up slabs in a stunning position to a belay on the ridge crest.
Descent - Abseil down the route on fixed anchors. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The great red Diedre in the centre of the face.

G. Bettembourg, H Thiverage 25/Apr/1975.

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Mont Blanc Super Cracks

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