UKH

14m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning crack with a kink early on, is gained from the left and sprinted on jams and jugs, passing a niche. Steep and pumpy, it is often dirty and can feel hard for the grade. © Rockfax

FAA. John Loy 1964.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Millstone * HVS In a day, Michelle's crack ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
stephenmckenzie 12 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy. Feeled lead attempt and dogged on second.
βeta?
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βeta: Pumpy. Feeled lead attempt and dogged on second.
climbersion 16 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not a horrendous route....but not HVS either! More like solid E1 5b although my second felt it to be nearer 5C. Very sustained overhanging jamming for the first 1/2. Now cleaned for 06! Go do.
βeta?
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βeta: Not a horrendous route....but not HVS either! More like solid E1 5b although my second felt it to be nearer 5C. Very sustained overhanging jamming for the first 1/2. Now cleaned for 06! Go do.
Ropeboy 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hard(ish) climbing the moment leave the ground makes this feel very pumpy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard(ish) climbing the moment leave the ground makes this feel very pumpy.
Nick Smith - Climbers 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A horrendous route! Overgrown and dirty. I've led both Brimstone and Gates of Mordor, and found this one the hardest of the three! Deserves at least E1 for the sustained climbing in the first half of the route.
βeta?
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βeta: A horrendous route! Overgrown and dirty. I've led both Brimstone and Gates of Mordor, and found this one the hardest of the three! Deserves at least E1 for the sustained climbing in the first half of the route.

Logged Ascents

72 users have logged this
12 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brooks' Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage South Edge)
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