Rockfax Description
A fine thin crack which is one of Millstone's classic E2s with a crucial and fingery bulge near half-height. Most people start by scrambling up Scoop Crack to the mid-height ledge, though the steep and awkward lower corner crack is a good alternative and best done early in the year before the ferns take hold (5b ). © Rockfax
FFA. Tom Proctor.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , London Wall Training List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Millstone London roads and places (Not finished) , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Fantastic Fiddly Cracks , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , The Festival Of Shite , The Peg-Pocketeer , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , Dunc's ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| im off | 4 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Great route. Fell off crux. Good gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. Fell off crux. Good gear. |
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| Jus | 31 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Hardest move by far is reaching the mid height ledge! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hardest move by far is reaching the mid height ledge! |
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| ksjs | 14 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: straightforward for 5c but one or two sections where good footwork and the will to keep climbing may be of use. the gear felt a bit spaced (in reality though it isnt) and for those who like relatively regular placements i suggest taking some micro wires / swedges. a great route with sustained climbing, some lovely moves and a bit of an exposed feel to it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: straightforward for 5c but one or two sections where good footwork and the will to keep climbing may be of use. the gear felt a bit spaced (in reality though it isnt) and for those who like relatively regular placements i suggest taking some micro wires / swedges. a great route with sustained climbing, some lovely moves and a bit of an exposed feel to it. |
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| The Pylon King | 3 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: bloody tough crux! | βeta? | |
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βeta: bloody tough crux! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Zeus
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)