Rockfax Description
Fine climbing with two impressive and contrasting pitches.
1) E2 5b, 18m. Layback up the huge flake to a tiny ledge. The upper part is steeper and leads to a massive terrace. Escape or:
2) E3 5b, 16m. The upper arete is delicate and effectively unprotected. The ancient golo/bolt should not be trusted! © Rockfax
FAA. Dave Johnson 1957. FFA. Al Evans 1965.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Millstone London roads and places (Not finished) , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Michelle's crack ticklist , DUMC Grit Gathering 2019 , Bugs training , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Callum Blejean | 21 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: For P2, after peg get to ledge, tiny borehole to the right that will fit a red dragonfly. Now you have double the pro for P2. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: For P2, after peg get to ledge, tiny borehole to the right that will fit a red dragonfly. Now you have double the pro for P2. |
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| samt | 29 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: WARNING, the very top of the crag, i.e. the last hold is a large elongated breeze block sized block, which is totally loose. It was sticking out of the top at about a 20 degree angle. I avoided using it at all, and the last man up pushed it back into place. Either wants lifting off and chucking, or resining in place. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: WARNING, the very top of the crag, i.e. the last hold is a large elongated breeze block sized block, which is totally loose. It was sticking out of the top at about a 20 degree angle. I avoided using it at all, and the last man up pushed it back into place. Either wants lifting off and chucking, or resining in place. |
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| UKB Shark | 2 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch solid E2 with a slippery green wall to run your feet up. The top pitch is an E3 horror show and it is best to scramble up the corner at the back as described in Paul Nunns guide. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: First pitch solid E2 with a slippery green wall to run your feet up. The top pitch is an E3 horror show and it is best to scramble up the corner at the back as described in Paul Nunns guide. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Time for Tea
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)