Rockfax Description
A fine varied pitch with a lot of good climbing and no nasty surprises along the way. Follow Lyons Corner House to the high ledge then trend right to reach and pass the central overlap awkwardly by finger-jamming and a tough mantelshelf. Finish up the wide gritty crack above. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s. FFA. Tom Proctor 1975.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bugs training , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , The Festival Of Shite , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , Dunc's ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| joeramsay | 10 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: GEAR BETA ALERT save a gold cam (dragon 4 equivalent) for the crux | ||
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βeta: GEAR BETA ALERT save a gold cam (dragon 4 equivalent) for the crux |
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| Chris Foxy | 3 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Deserves stars, interesting climbing, getting over the overlap is the crux | ||
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βeta: Deserves stars, interesting climbing, getting over the overlap is the crux |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 12 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: Very nice route - lots of different moves, interesting situations and gear where it's needed. Totally fair at E2 5c. About as hard as Regents St. Tricky top move. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very nice route - lots of different moves, interesting situations and gear where it's needed. Totally fair at E2 5c. About as hard as Regents St. Tricky top move. |
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| Mick B | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I thought steady E25c. Consistently interesting climbing with good gear and great (hands off) rests.Three star route for me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I thought steady E25c. Consistently interesting climbing with good gear and great (hands off) rests.Three star route for me. |
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| chris j | 19 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: More like E1 5b, surely. Plenty of rests, good gear... Be confident and it'll go like a breeze | βeta? | |
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βeta: More like E1 5b, surely. Plenty of rests, good gear... Be confident and it'll go like a breeze |
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| The Pylon King | 2 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: worth 3 stars | βeta? | |
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βeta: worth 3 stars |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 25 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: Not the clearest of route descriptions, and the line in the guidebook is a bit off. Head directly for the short wide crack at the central overlap, passing it on the right (mantelshelf), then up for the long chalked break (number 2.5 friend!) and another mantelshelf (crux move?). The photo in the guide on p.185 shows the line well. A quick move up and then traverse left to finish. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not the clearest of route descriptions, and the line in the guidebook is a bit off. Head directly for the short wide crack at the central overlap, passing it on the right (mantelshelf), then up for the long chalked break (number 2.5 friend!) and another mantelshelf (crux move?). The photo in the guide on p.185 shows the line well. A quick move up and then traverse left to finish. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Zeus
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)