28m.

Rockfax Description
A fine varied pitch with a lot of good climbing and no nasty surprises along the way. Follow Lyons Corner House to the high ledge then trend right to reach and pass the central overlap awkwardly by finger-jamming and a tough mantelshelf. Finish up the wide gritty crack above. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s. FFA. Tom Proctor 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bugs training , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , The Festival Of Shite , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , Dunc's ticklist

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User Date Notes
joeramsay 10 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: GEAR BETA ALERT save a gold cam (dragon 4 equivalent) for the crux
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βeta: GEAR BETA ALERT save a gold cam (dragon 4 equivalent) for the crux
Chris Foxy 3 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Deserves stars, interesting climbing, getting over the overlap is the crux
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βeta: Deserves stars, interesting climbing, getting over the overlap is the crux
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 12 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route - lots of different moves, interesting situations and gear where it's needed. Totally fair at E2 5c. About as hard as Regents St. Tricky top move.
βeta?
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βeta: Very nice route - lots of different moves, interesting situations and gear where it's needed. Totally fair at E2 5c. About as hard as Regents St. Tricky top move.
Mick B 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought steady E25c. Consistently interesting climbing with good gear and great (hands off) rests.Three star route for me.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought steady E25c. Consistently interesting climbing with good gear and great (hands off) rests.Three star route for me.
chris j 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: More like E1 5b, surely. Plenty of rests, good gear... Be confident and it'll go like a breeze
βeta?
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βeta: More like E1 5b, surely. Plenty of rests, good gear... Be confident and it'll go like a breeze
The Pylon King 2 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: worth 3 stars
βeta?
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βeta: worth 3 stars
Nick Smith - Climbers 25 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Not the clearest of route descriptions, and the line in the guidebook is a bit off. Head directly for the short wide crack at the central overlap, passing it on the right (mantelshelf), then up for the long chalked break (number 2.5 friend!) and another mantelshelf (crux move?). The photo in the guide on p.185 shows the line well. A quick move up and then traverse left to finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not the clearest of route descriptions, and the line in the guidebook is a bit off. Head directly for the short wide crack at the central overlap, passing it on the right (mantelshelf), then up for the long chalked break (number 2.5 friend!) and another mantelshelf (crux move?). The photo in the guide on p.185 shows the line well. A quick move up and then traverse left to finish.

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Guidebooks for Millstone Edge

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 102
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 98
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Rasp

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Higgar Tor)

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