UKH

22m.

Rockfax Description
A popular testpiece. Difficulties escalate to a hard final move - easier after a quick rest on the rope! The sandy roof above the cave gives a gripping struggle passing an ancient bong peg. The bottom section is often done on its own being hard but safe, though the belay spikes in the cave have now gone. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1976.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Monopoly, The Millstone 'Streets', World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, James' Winter Grit ticklist, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Bugs training, John Allen (gritstone) megamix

Feedback

User Date Notes
ksjs 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: i did this as the E3 6a version: my first Millstone 6a effort and it felt difficult (ie a bigger gap between 5c and 6a than i had expected). i found the moves to reach the upper part of the crack sequence dependent and reachy without much for your feet (maybe i just dont use my feet well enough?). great gear throughout and impossible to clip the peg but you dont really need it (having it pre-threaded would though make things feel more relaxed). good moves and a great finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i did this as the E3 6a version: my first Millstone 6a effort and it felt difficult (ie a bigger gap between 5c and 6a than i had expected). i found the moves to reach the upper part of the crack sequence dependent and reachy without much for your feet (maybe i just dont use my feet well enough?). great gear throughout and impossible to clip the peg but you dont really need it (having it pre-threaded would though make things feel more relaxed). good moves and a great finish.
Adrian Berry 16 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Note: the peg on the first pich no longer has any cord to clip - making it impossible to clip unless you thread a wire through it - the first half is worth E4 in its own right in its current state.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Note: the peg on the first pich no longer has any cord to clip - making it impossible to clip unless you thread a wire through it - the first half is worth E4 in its own right in its current state.

Logged Ascents

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 29
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Bat Out of Hell

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Higgar Tor)
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