A classic outing, described here with a more direct start up the crack. The original start climbs the diagonal corner on the left.
1) 32m. Start at the polished finger-crack in the centre of the slab. Follow this to gain the diagonal overlap which is followed rightwards to a niche. Move left through the overlap to gain the slab on the left and make a tricky manoeuvre through the overlap and onto the large ledge.
2) 30m. Climb the groove behind the flake, stepping left at a steepening and continuing up the groove to a "leg width" crack. Surmount this amusing obstacle to a niche. Continue up the fault to a huge block, and hand traverse leftwards below this, striding wildly across a chasm at its end into a large bay. Move up to the back left of the bay and belay below a large chimney
3) 12m. The crux chimney! Squirm up the chimney at the back of the bay. Some holds on the right wall might be useful. An alternative, easier finish climbs the wall on the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A great polished classic which is almost always busy. The nature of the climbing means that it attracts its fair share of struggling seconds (and leaders) who curse and swear their way up the polished wide cracks, flakes, chimneys and grooves.
Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Milestone Butress, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Ogwen 1000, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Big Ogwen Day Out, The Long Routes, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Mountain Rock, Easy peasy Northy Weesy, The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round, Hard Rock & Other Classics
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