UKH

4 pitches. The Central Pillar of Frenzy’ is an easily accessable 4 pitch E1/2 with an abseil descent which may leave you hungry for more. Out of the sun.

Jim Bridwell, Roger Breedlove, 1973.

Ticklists

Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Yosemite Little Walls For Mortals , Cali Roadtrip Wishlist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mbaillie 4 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The alternative rap route described in guidebooks does exist, hard to find first two anchors. From top of P5, rap hard (climbers) left *above* the left slanting, right facing corner feature. About 40-45m. Next one is about 50m straight down, on a ledge to the right of the face you are rapping down. The last one is then easy to find, straight down. Two 60m ropes required
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The alternative rap route described in guidebooks does exist, hard to find first two anchors. From top of P5, rap hard (climbers) left *above* the left slanting, right facing corner feature. About 40-45m. Next one is about 50m straight down, on a ledge to the right of the face you are rapping down. The last one is then easy to find, straight down. Two 60m ropes required
Derek Ryden 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: If you finish after pitch 5 (normal practice these days) be aware that the "alternative rappel route" recommended in the guidebooks is not as shown in either the old and new guides. Rap lengths and positions of anchors are inaccurate, and belay stations are not equipped with rings, so take plenty of leaver 'biners and don't be afraid to use them. Abseiling down the route itself would be an alternative, but you would piss off anyone still on the route, plus, the top pitch has a knot-eating crack, and the party we saw use this descent had to abandon their (stuck) ropes on the final abseil and come back the next day. Your choice!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you finish after pitch 5 (normal practice these days) be aware that the "alternative rappel route" recommended in the guidebooks is not as shown in either the old and new guides. Rap lengths and positions of anchors are inaccurate, and belay stations are not equipped with rings, so take plenty of leaver 'biners and don't be afraid to use them. Abseiling down the route itself would be an alternative, but you would piss off anyone still on the route, plus, the top pitch has a knot-eating crack, and the party we saw use this descent had to abandon their (stuck) ropes on the final abseil and come back the next day. Your choice!

Logged Ascents

189 users have logged this
22 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Deimos

Grade: 5.9 ***
(Phobos/Deimos Cliff)

Loading Notifications...