UKH

Many prefer the slightly harder climbing here to the chaos of the Hornli ridge.

Bich/Carrel Jul/1865.

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Alpine Dreamz

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User Date Notes
JacobHarmer 22 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wow an amazing route but dam it was mentally tough, and the altitude got me. The climbing is relatively easy but there is quite a bit of proper climbing on trad gear and tonnes of scrambling with the most severe exposure you can imagine when you're just roped up. We did 5 hours up to the hut the first day, then set off at 4am and didn't get down to the village till 7pm as we missed the last cable cart. A stunning climb but not to be underestimated!
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βeta: Wow an amazing route but dam it was mentally tough, and the altitude got me. The climbing is relatively easy but there is quite a bit of proper climbing on trad gear and tonnes of scrambling with the most severe exposure you can imagine when you're just roped up. We did 5 hours up to the hut the first day, then set off at 4am and didn't get down to the village till 7pm as we missed the last cable cart. A stunning climb but not to be underestimated!
Rob_Morris1996 3 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 18/09/2020 (first day of bypass): The Jordan Ladder has been damaged by rockfall, with only part of it remaining. New shipping ropes have been affixed to its left, to bypass the ladder. This section is prone to rockfall, hence the guide/guardian recommended finishing ascending/descending it in entirety before 9am.
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βeta: 18/09/2020 (first day of bypass): The Jordan Ladder has been damaged by rockfall, with only part of it remaining. New shipping ropes have been affixed to its left, to bypass the ladder. This section is prone to rockfall, hence the guide/guardian recommended finishing ascending/descending it in entirety before 9am.
Gwinn512 27 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The Carrel hut has to be booked in advance since summer 2019, call the Cervinia guide office. Costs 30 EUR (as of 2020)
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βeta: The Carrel hut has to be booked in advance since summer 2019, call the Cervinia guide office. Costs 30 EUR (as of 2020)
ulastopka 15 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The aim to reach the top of Matterhorn from Carrel hut should be within 5 hours/less as the descending take much longer.
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βeta: The aim to reach the top of Matterhorn from Carrel hut should be within 5 hours/less as the descending take much longer.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

North Flank

Grade: AD+ ***
(Castor)
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