Rockfax Description
Sustained and fingery climbing with some neat manoeuvres up the pale streak. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Masson 7's , Lime Time , Peak sport for mortals , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Gary Gibson | 22 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Hazel | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson with Hazel |
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| Gary Gibson | 17 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Hazel | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Hazel |
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| stp | 23 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Some rock came off just below the 4th bolt. This was significant for both the hands and feet. The route is more sustained now and probably deserves 7a+ (I used one handhold on the route to the right because it seemed very contrived not to). The 4th bolt will be hard to clip but with a long preplaced quickdraw you can clip from below from a good hold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some rock came off just below the 4th bolt. This was significant for both the hands and feet. The route is more sustained now and probably deserves 7a+ (I used one handhold on the route to the right because it seemed very contrived not to). The 4th bolt will be hard to clip but with a long preplaced quickdraw you can clip from below from a good hold. |
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| remus | 17 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Reclimbed without the big hold that fell off on the 8th July or so. Maybe 7a+ or 7b now? Fairly sustained. Not particularly hard to climb around the scar but adds a few more moves without a rest in to the top. Would be a bit of a pain getting the 4th draw in (i stick clipped it). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Reclimbed without the big hold that fell off on the 8th July or so. Maybe 7a+ or 7b now? Fairly sustained. Not particularly hard to climb around the scar but adds a few more moves without a rest in to the top. Would be a bit of a pain getting the 4th draw in (i stick clipped it). |
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| Dean.p.92 | 8 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Huge loose jug block at mid height just below the bolt came off today, should probably stay away from the route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Huge loose jug block at mid height just below the bolt came off today, should probably stay away from the route |
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| KGshoots | 23 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: This route has changed significantly since I was last on it. Went direct through the missing holds instead of the detour out right. Hard 7a+ this way. | ||
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βeta: This route has changed significantly since I was last on it. Went direct through the missing holds instead of the detour out right. Hard 7a+ this way. |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 7 May, 2021 |
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βeta: So much glue but nice moves. Still 7a with the right-hand detour. | βeta? | |
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βeta: So much glue but nice moves. Still 7a with the right-hand detour. |
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| Paul Sagar | 19 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Certainly 7a+ with the shedding of holds in the crux. And not soft at the grade, either. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Certainly 7a+ with the shedding of holds in the crux. And not soft at the grade, either. |
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| drcorbasisgod | 9 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Hold broke on crux - alternative sequence available but harder, maybe 7a+ now | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hold broke on crux - alternative sequence available but harder, maybe 7a+ now |
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| KGshoots | 31 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: 2 finger slot near the top (below the slopers) that you clip off is now a massive bucket, not sure whats happened looks like its been chipped to make it a lot bigger, feels easier now with that big rest. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2 finger slot near the top (below the slopers) that you clip off is now a massive bucket, not sure whats happened looks like its been chipped to make it a lot bigger, feels easier now with that big rest. |
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| Ben_Roberts | 25 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: A decent size hold broke when I stood on it near the top, narrowly missing my partner. I don’t know how it hadn’t come off earlier because the rock was rotten. Shouldn’t affect the grade. It’s beneath the route if someone wants to reattach it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A decent size hold broke when I stood on it near the top, narrowly missing my partner. I don’t know how it hadn’t come off earlier because the rock was rotten. Shouldn’t affect the grade. It’s beneath the route if someone wants to reattach it. |
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| LOwen | 1 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Missing hold has been reattached didn't help my weak arms | βeta? | |
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βeta: Missing hold has been reattached didn't help my weak arms |
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| FaffmasterG | 24 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: A hold has clearly been broken off around half height after the large horizontal handhold ledge. Probably makes the route a little harder than it was before but the hold that\'s left is still a good crimp. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A hold has clearly been broken off around half height after the large horizontal handhold ledge. Probably makes the route a little harder than it was before but the hold that's left is still a good crimp. |
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Route of Interest
Open Gate
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Upper)